Hello all,

Drove yesterday, no issues. About half a day later I started it up and there was a new, and horrible, noise coming from the engine area. It's a grinding type noise, maybe a bit like rattling, never heard it before.

It was a bit cold out when I started it; had to scrape the windows... don't know if that would really matter.

I reved it a bit, grinding pretty much went away. Started driving it and felt some new vibration that hadn't been there. Got to the gas station, checked oil, was over a quart low . <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/scared.gif" alt="" />

Drove it to see what would happen, had about fifty miles to get home. Everything was pretty good at speed and I made it home without incident. I was thinking (hoping) it maybe got all better. But this morning the grinding noise and vibration was still there.

Never got up to speed today, but while driving the grinding is sorta still there while the vibration goes away when I take my foot off the gas. So it's mostly under load, but the grinding noise is comes and goes at idle.

Any thoughts? I've been researching and have some ideas, but appreciate your input. Please ask for any more details if it would help.

Thanks



<img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />

Mechanical advance? Balance shaft chain? Try adjusting the timing chain tension? Valve not opening fully?

These are the issues my Raider has, similar vibration description.

He's got a diesel, so I think he's got a rubber band instead of a chain. I'd be looking at stuff like the belt tensioner pulley bearing, water pump, injection pump, p/s pump, alternator, a/c pulley clutch, and pray it's not the water pump or engine internals.

A mechanics stethoscope is cheap and mandatory for finding engine noises. It's a doc's stethoscope with a metal rod connected to a small metal diaphragm that's connected to the earpieces, and you'll be amazed at what you can hear. Sound travels well thru the metal of the engine, and gets a lot louder at the source. Watch the moving parts proximity to mortal flesh and tools...

A poor man's mechsteth can be made from a piece of vac hose used to probe for sound. It's pretty directional, too. Insert end in ear and probe with other end, taped to a stick for the tough reaches.

??? His sig says 2.6 and knowing the numberpad layout Id be inclined to think he accidentally typed 2.3 instead of 2.6... <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" />

**That's right, my mistake. I tried to edit the original title, hopefully that will update to the correct "2.6"



I drove it this morning and, again, the sound is there at idle upon start. After reving and driving away it mostly goes away, but comes and goes. But the vibration only goes away at speed.

Other info: Odometer reads about 190k, I've had it a little over a year. It leaks oil quite a bit, sometimes "shudders" in reverse. A belt squeek was in the mix this morning. Really, it needs a bit of attention. I was hoping to make it until my brother and I finish his engine rebuild (not too far away).

I'll poke around a bit more tonight. Planning on checking the rear driveshaft for play, would make sense with the vibration, but would this cause the noise that seems to be from the engine area? From reading other posts here I was considering a transfer case mainshaft bearing or output bushing? Or I was thinking it could be something with the balance shaft?

Just some thoughts.

Feel around under the water pump. THere's a small cover held on by two 10mm bolts. Remove the cover and loosen the tall head 10mm bolt underneath. Push the small metal tang towards the center of the engine until the slack is taken up, and retighten the tall head bolt and seal and replace the cover and crank it. SOunds like BS chain loose to me, and that should tighten it up so the noise is reduced. TIme to start thinking about a complete timing kit.

Thanks.

Is that the proceedure described on page 284-285 on the downloadable manule? "SILENT SHAFT DRIVE CHAIN TENSION ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE"

Not sure of the page numbers. Never saw any reason to remember the page numbers. Otherwise, yup, that one...

Don't tell me I'm the only one to memorize page numbers. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />

Thanks a ton for your suggestion. I did the adjustment last night.

I no longer have the noise, which is nice. The vibration is mostly gone. I'm wondering if I maybe put too much tension on the chain. Seems to be resistence/less power.

The stretched chain will change the valve timing some, which may account for the low power, but tightening the slack side should not change the cam timing further...