Thank you, Frank, for making me feel better. I picked up a Voere .300 Win Mag a while back. My original intention was to just use it as it came. Then I decided to touch up the stock a bit, and then I decided to touch up a couple spots in the bluing, then I was going to shoot it.

I decided to strip all the bluing and re-blue the barrel and action. Then I re-finished the stock.

When I pulled the barrel and action and discovered that there as a rub spot on the barrel where the white line between the rosewood cap and the rest of the stock came together had rubbed on the barrel. I decided to go ahead and fix that so that the barrel free-floated as designed (it is also pillar mounted). That was a 10 or 15 minute fix using a 1/4 spool carving chisel. I just removed the portion of the white line that protruded from the stock.

I still haven't shot it as they recommended letting the bluing cure for 6 weeks or so.

Now I don't profess to know much about guns, but I've got a feeling this isn't going to be much use for "spotlighting" intended prey....

Jim, you're welcome! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" /> I'll bet that Voere is a beauty.... they make some nice rifles. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

This one will probably seem strange to some folks - it'll be a blend of old and new.... what I call a Clint Eastwood rifle - the good, bad and ugly. Since it'll be some pretty and some practical, maybe it'll be pretty practical.

I found out that many of the Redfield JR mounts leave a gap on the sight dovetail, so I'll leave it alone until I mount the scope and see how far off POA is from POI. The gap is .023", so if I did the math correctly and the mount should lie flat on the receiver, POA with a centered scope will be 18" of elevation at 100 yards. The intended scope has 50" of internal vertical adjustment at 100 yards, but I don't want to drop it too low for 100 yard zero. It's nice to have a bit of natural elevation so there's more adjustment in the scope for long shots, but I think 18" at neutral is waaaay excessive for any shooting I'll do. Maybe Carlos Hathcock would like it. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" />

I've ordered the scope, drill/tap, stock finishing kit, zinc phosphate parkerizing solution, etc. It's amazing how much money you can put in an old rifle if you really try.

Frank

It's going to be a nice plinker. I bet you will be surprised by the accuracy otherwise that stock will look great "over the mantel" <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/patriot.gif" alt="" />

I was at the range two weeks ago trying out my new all copper ammo since they outlawed lead in California A zone because of the California Condor. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif" alt="" />

Meaning???? Can we still shoot off our old stuff? I know a few places that still ship surplus ammo to Cali and thats all FMJ lead....and all the airgun pellets are still lead.


I'll have to read up on this.

You can shoot lead all you want, you just can't hunt with it or have on you while hunting in the following area

http://www.dfg.ca.gov/wildlife/hunting/condor/docs/Ridley-TreeCondorPreservationAct.pdf

'0e-A3's with a star on the receiver were National Match weapons, accurized to the max, and they all had full floating barrels because the rifle would heat up and get a bend in the barrel if it was bound to the stock. Actions were bedded. I think you are on the right track, even in a different stock.

Part of my plan for this rifle is to pillar bed the action with the original steel bedding, plus epoxy bed the receiver, recoil lug and a couple of inches of the barrel past the chamber, free-float the rest of the barrel... check my Bubba crown job for grouping, recrown if necessary and then see what load the remaining length of barrel resonance likes.

I have a feeling the shorter barrel may be a little stiffer and more accurate than the full 24" length, but I won't know until I shoot it. I'll give up a few fps of velocity, but the loss of velocity isn't so bad on .30-06 ammunition.... maybe 20fps/inch of barrel loss - so maybe 30fps.... negligible as a percentage of an average lead load of 2700fps. It'll be interesting to see if a heavier or lighter bullet works in the shorter barrel. I'm sure plenty of folks have already figured this out, but I do love to prove things to myself so I (think I) understand them. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />

I guess I might get a little muzzle blast from the shorter barrel, but maybe it'll serve to keep the other shooters away from me at the range. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" />

I really don't know why I'm doing this - except that I never had the means to experiment with this stuff as a kid and now I can, so I will. Heck, when I was a kid, any day I had the money to buy a box of .22 shorts or a box of shotgun shells, I was out the door and in the woods with whatever rifle or shotgun I had - and it really didn't matter if it was a nice firearm or a piece of junk, so long as it was in my hands. Now I can buy all the ammo and firearms I want, but I never get to the woods...... so I'll make up a reason.

This one will be very simple, not completely removed from it's roots, yet refined in a way only a hunter would appreciate - the rifle I would have built as a kid - if I could have had anything I wanted. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

Frank

Evidently I am now an addict. I have been planning to pick up a couple of deer rifles and I did so Monday. They will be for my grandson and I to use.

The first is a fully sporterized Mauser action with a synthetic stock. It has mounts but no scope. It does have adjustable rear sight and a decent front sight. It is a .270 and is in very nice condition.

The second is a Savage 110E with a wood stock. It has a 4x scope. The caliber is 30.06.

In keeping with the theme of this thread, I did notice that the 30.06 could use a recoil pad, both need slings and I need to get a scope for the .270.

The Mauser is a very nice rifle..... its action was copied by the US government for use in building the 1903 Springfield. Mauser is considered a slightly better action than the Springfield version.

There are a gazillion scopes from which to choose - some better than others. If it helps, here's a category list compiled by the always controversial Chuck Hawks:

web page

One thing I'd point out for consideration - not necessarily a recommendation, since everyone has a specific need - It is rumored that Bushnell is either discontinuing/renaming/restyling/combining/whatever their Elite 3200 and 4200 line of scopes.... so dealers are beginnning to discount their present inventory fairly well. I have waited until after Christmas and until I saw the one I wanted at a price I thought was pretty good - not a steal, but close enough to what I wanted to pay. I just bought a new Elite 3200 3-9x40mm in gloss finish for $159.99 shipped..... not bad for a scope good enough for my needs. The matte finish is about $5 less. If you wait a while (and if Bushnell will suit your needs), you might see even better prices, but I was happy paying that.

Frank