Ok, We got some ice and a little snow and had to get out this morning....very slick! I started to take my truck, but decided to take my new (to me) Raider. Ran fine to the first corner and came to a big hill and went for the 4 wheel drive. It locked in 4 high and took off, ran great! Then started to move it back to 2 WD and thought, do I have to come to a full stop in this thing? Just to be on the safe side, I only shifted in or out of 4x4 at a stop.

Is this necessary with the 89 V-6 Raider? Or, does it shift on the fly....Thanks guys, I know it's a dumb question....

I didn't get an owner's manual...

Not dumb at all..

Stick or auto trans .?. Get rolling real slow ..But Trans in neutral ...Shift the tranfercase.. Never stop BUT keeping the truck rolling REAL slow .. In time you can shift on the fly SLOWLEE.... No the case does not "persay" have shift on the fly ...

If the truck is under a load the t-case will not shift ...If the trans is a auto ... High motor RPM and speed will keep the t-case from shifting

Try playing with it its easy just takes some time to see how to shift on the fly ...

Do to the ice and colded in the Arizona northern highlands this year.. I'm having to shift my Monty in and out if 4X4 ..And never realy stop ..Just slow down ...

Auto hubs or Man...?

David

Hazardous Toys inc

I have an '89 with the 4-cyl and 5-speed, so not sure how much of this applies to your particular case. But, whenever I've had to put my Monty into 4wd, I'm not moving, trans in neutral (or clutch pedal pressed down), shift into 4wd, watch the indicator light on the dash, then take off. When taking it out of 4wd and back into 2wd, I'm not moving, depress the clutch pedal or trans in neutral, shift into 2wd, then drive in the opposite direction until the indicator light on the dash goes out (usually 10-15 feet).

for all m/t, a/t, 2.6, 3.0 gen1's:

This is a slippery terrain 4wd only, because there is no center diff between the front and rear axles as there is between the two wheels on each axle, and since the front and rear wheels travel different distances when cornering, you will get driveline bind and wheel scrubbing and high rolling resistance, and may break hard parts.

The tcase will be very reluctant to shift under any load. Put the trans in N. Very slow rolling may help the shift. If you have autohubs, you have to go backwards at least one full wheel revolution to unlock them. They lock automatically going forward or reverse in 4wd. The front cv axle rotation engages them, and the wheel rotating on the cv axle drive stub unlocks them.

Thanks, I have the 5 speed. Well, thinking that it may not have shift on the fly, I depressed the clutch and engaged the 4wd. I came to a stop and with the clutch in, disengaged. I noticed the light was still on, so I backed op a few feet and the light went off. Lucky I was not at a stop light backing into another car!

I'll use neutral and then engage/disengage. I understand the rolling sloooowly, as I use to drop old jeeps that way, but I think, since this is mine and since it's an loder car...maybe I should baby it a little. I do wish it had better rubber gears, especially second!

One other thing, the first gear is very low, granny gear is an understatement. It goes about 10 feet and it's time to shift. So, I have been using second to take off at lights and it does much better.....but, I do have to give it more juice and find that friction point, by that time, it feels like the clutch is slipping, hard to explain, it might be slipping a bit, don't think so, but feels like it, lol, does that make sence? Is the stock clutch/pressure plate strong enoung just to use second to start out?

Sounds like it's in 4-low, not 4-high? When mine's in 4-high, it pretty much accelerates like 2-high. But when it's in 4-high, it definitely doesn't like tight turns of any kind!

I've been able to shift both M/T and A/T 2.6 Gen 1's between 4HI and 2HI, once the hubs were locked, at pretty much any speed (on appropriate surfaces, of course).

You can drive in 2HI with the hubs still locked in case you feel you might need to go into 4HI. They'll stay locked unless you back up, like FastEddy said.

I'd really use caution going into low range, though. Full stop, in neutral, may have to let the truck roll just a bit.

Of course, don't try it on your truck if you're not comfortable with my technique. I just know it worked for me.

John B.

And don't start out in second gear. You'll only burn up your clutch faster. It might feel like it's slipping because it is and you've heated it up quite a bit from doing it that way.

John B.

Put ya some manual hubs on her.

If you lock you engage 4wd and get the LOCK light to turn on your hubs should remain locked letting you shift on the fly. If your like me, you can just install manual hubs and if you feel you need to lock them beforehand and then just shift at any speed (Ive engaged my 4wd at 60mph no issue)