A few notes on the swap.
Front - undo the 6 nuts on the stub shafts first. Then take out the 4 bolts in the front crossmember, so the member will come out w/ it. Technically you could probably just remeove the big 21(?) mm bolt in the front where the diff cover connects to the crossmember, but it'll get hung up.
Then undo the 4 nuts/bolts on the driveshaft.
Then put a jack under the unit, and remove the 2 nuts/bolts mounting it to the frame. Lower w/ jack.

That sucker is HEAVY. chance are it's gonna fall. Be ready.

Re-installing that thing is a real PITA, just b/c its hard to balance and line up. Be prepared for profanity.

Tip - while it's out, press out the studs in the stub shafts and replace them w/ bolts/ nuts. There's an article here on it. it'll make re-install alot easier.

on the back - very easy.
Take tires off, remove 4 nuts on the back of the wheels.
I'm going to disagree about the brake lines. If they are OE, chances are good that there just isn't enough extra room.
But - there's a trick! On the p-side, there's a T bolted to the axle where both lines join from the 2 wheels.
Get 2 M10x1.0 thread pitch bolts.
Unscrew and remove the hard brake lines at this junction, and quickly thread those bolts into their place, this will prevent losing much brake fluid.
Then you can just pull the axles out. Don't let them just hang there though (tempting!) on the oil seal b/c it can crush teh seal and cause leaks later. This is a good time to check out those seals and replace if needed.
keep in mind, when you pull the axle out, diff fluid will drip out.

When pulling the 3rd, it can be really stuck to the axle housing. may need a few whacks w/ mallet to break the seal, and a little prying w/ a screwdriver to get it moving.

Toyota has a great grey RTV-type sealant just for that differential seal. It leaves just enough flexibility to not crack/leak later.
And, that sucker is also deceptively heavy!