You can get BFG a/t's in 33x9.5, thats what i run winter (pizza cutter style)
They should fit with no lift.

I've really looked around and can not find 4.56 gears for the 22RE. But are you saying the V6 gears will work in my truck?

I drove my pickup today for the 1st time in a month. It is really tall geared. it does 80mph pretty easy and smoothly.

I picked up a 98 Vette and have been neglecting my baby.
It does 80 pretty easy too.

I'm very happy with the 9.5 tires.
I will stay with that even if I go taller.

Okay I just got a hit off Craig's List.

$200.00 for a 4.56 out of a V6, for the rear.
He said it would work well, just beefier.

Can I use V6 for the front too?

Thanks

Yes.
The v6 rear 3rd has 4 pinions instead of 2, but the diff it is the same size and uses the same axles as the 4cyls. The only difference in the front is between auto hubs and manual, but it is an easy fix if the front came from a rig with auto hubs.

AFAIK, the 31" tire package option wasn't available for the 22re, and is likely why nothing showed up in your search.

I'm getting pretty excited about this.

So I get to put beefier stuff on my truck.
Make it even more unbreakable.
I gain more power and maybe even better all a round gas mileage. So if I can find a used front 3rd member for the same price, everything could get done for $500.00.

This is good.

Will I have the same style 3rd members?
Meaning will they have the same amount of slip as my current setup?

Yes, if it is an open diff, it will be/act just like the stock one you have now.

You should see an increase in mpg since the taller gears will get you moving easier. It still wont be like your Vette, but it should feel like you increased the HP some, and you will be getting the most out of the upgrades you have already made to the engine.

not sure how the 4wheeling scene is in your area, but often front 3rd members can be found b/c people do a solid axle swap and they are just left over. E.g. nothing wrong with them, but they are functionally useless to the owner.

You should be able to get an open front 3rd for $200 w/o too much trouble.
Worst case, Car-part.com, searching the whole country, have a yard ship it to you.
And, yes, even if it comes from a vehicle w/ the ADD system, although technically it is a slightly different casing and axle, that can be "fixed" to work for non-ADD axles for the price of a hose clamp and 5 minutes of work.

Picked up the front unit today, $100.00 and a drive back to Reno. I found the rear 3rd member for $200.00.
I can't pick it up for another week. Hope it's still there.

Are there any Tech reports/How to, on how to change out the front unit?

The '93 FSM listed at the top of the board will have everything you need to swap the diffs out. The front is straight forward bolt-in provedure, only 3 bolts hold the diff in place, 4 on the drive line, and 6 on each of the CV's. The rear is just as easy, just a bit more messy. There should be enough play in the brake lines that you shouldn't have to remove them, unless you want to install new axle seals.

A few notes on the swap.
Front - undo the 6 nuts on the stub shafts first. Then take out the 4 bolts in the front crossmember, so the member will come out w/ it. Technically you could probably just remeove the big 21(?) mm bolt in the front where the diff cover connects to the crossmember, but it'll get hung up.
Then undo the 4 nuts/bolts on the driveshaft.
Then put a jack under the unit, and remove the 2 nuts/bolts mounting it to the frame. Lower w/ jack.

That sucker is HEAVY. chance are it's gonna fall. Be ready.

Re-installing that thing is a real PITA, just b/c its hard to balance and line up. Be prepared for profanity.

Tip - while it's out, press out the studs in the stub shafts and replace them w/ bolts/ nuts. There's an article here on it. it'll make re-install alot easier.

on the back - very easy.
Take tires off, remove 4 nuts on the back of the wheels.
I'm going to disagree about the brake lines. If they are OE, chances are good that there just isn't enough extra room.
But - there's a trick! On the p-side, there's a T bolted to the axle where both lines join from the 2 wheels.
Get 2 M10x1.0 thread pitch bolts.
Unscrew and remove the hard brake lines at this junction, and quickly thread those bolts into their place, this will prevent losing much brake fluid.
Then you can just pull the axles out. Don't let them just hang there though (tempting!) on the oil seal b/c it can crush teh seal and cause leaks later. This is a good time to check out those seals and replace if needed.
keep in mind, when you pull the axle out, diff fluid will drip out.

When pulling the 3rd, it can be really stuck to the axle housing. may need a few whacks w/ mallet to break the seal, and a little prying w/ a screwdriver to get it moving.

Toyota has a great grey RTV-type sealant just for that differential seal. It leaves just enough flexibility to not crack/leak later.
And, that sucker is also deceptively heavy!