well I got it back together, but one question? how tight should the wheel bearings be? I have them in there with no play but the tires doesnt spin easily. When I spin it it only goes about 1/2 of a revolution then stops.

Tight the locking nut until moderately tight, then back off 1/4 turn, or until the wheel spins freely and there is no play in the wheel.

Grab the wheel at 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock, if you can feel the wheel wobbling slightly, it's too loose...

OK I got it back together and took it for a test drive, The sound is still there. I wonder if the wheel bearings are bad.
It sounds like a whirring noise and gets louder and vibrates the whole vehicle.
Any ideas?
People can hear me from a couple of blocks away if that tells you anything.

From what you write, seems like either a half shaft, or a drive shaft...

If it were a wheel bearing that was nuked, you would feel it in the steering wheel, and when you had it apart, you would be able to see it.

Halfshafts don't usually whir so much as graunch (lower frequency). If it is a whir then it could be the support bearings in the diff, or if the noise is in the LHS the bearing in the end of the diff case near the LHS halfshaft. Driveshaft would not be an issue if the vehicle is not in 4WD - if the noise is present in 2WD then it is not the driveshaft (tcase to diff).

As a guide, bearing noise will usually present as a modulating volume whir as the bad balls roll past the bad area of the inner bearing surface generally at a ratio of about once every 3-4 revolutions of the inner surface. DOJ/CV noise will be apparent as a 1:1 ratio low rumble with knocking on corners (a characteristic "knockle" sound), generally the direction you turn with the loudest noise will be the side with the bad joint. A cyclical 1:1 ratio sound is usually tires, or warped disk/loose wheelbearing combination levering the bearing a bit per rev.

Before going any further though, HAVE YOU SWAPPED THE TIRES AROUND IN CASE IT IS SIMPLY ABNORMAL WEAR ON THE TIRES (feathering)?

Justa guess:
After I got my new Rockcrawler wheels on my rig I ended up with the super loud whirling noise.
My Brake calipers were to large to clear the inner dimentions of the new wheels.
Even after grinding the calipers slightly by 1 Milimeter they still do that sound for the first 20 miles of breaking-in any new brake pads.
Super embarrasing... <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/scared.gif" alt="" />
Look on the inside of the new rims you got to see if there is a tiny ring around them; indication of rubbing.

I have been driving on these tires for a month now and havent heard any noise until I took this long trip. We were on the highway and we heard a zzzzzzip sound then it went away. We got almost home and then heard the loud whirring sound, The sound stops if I am going 15 mph or less, and gets louder when accelerating. The only thing I can figure is that I need to replace the axle needle bearing and get new wheel bearings, Also maybe I have the wheels bearings too tight right now also.
Needless to say, the truck is staying home for about 4 more days until I get some time off of work.

I am going to try to get a audio of what is going on in this, maybe that will help.

This is the bearing that I found in pieces. I ordered one and it should be here next week sometime.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/FAG-Front...=item4cf4d0eefc

Hey guys, is the spindle hub supposed to have grease inside it where the axle shaft goes thru? I am not talking about where the wheel bearings go, the hole before where the bearings are. The large hub area the hooks up to the tie rod, the upper control arm and the lower ball joint.

Just wondering because mine is as dry as a bone, and all rusty.

The bearing you posted the pic of is the needle bearings for supporting the front axle shaft in the front hub. It's there for when your front axle is spinning. If you are in 2WD then it is not in use. It should have a good amount of lube in it because it will dry up over time because you don't use 4WD all that often.

Inside the hub there should be a fare amount of grease around the inner and outer wheel bearings. When I did mine I packed the wheel bearings well, but then put in extra grease after to make sure they stayed packed. In between the bearings you'll want to pack in extra grease because this is a grease reservoir to keep the bearings packed all the time.

The tension on the wheel bearings is measured with a pull gage. If I remember right it should be measured by connecting the pull gage to one of the wheel studs and as you pull on the gage in the direction of rotation it should be less than 3 û 5 lbs. If you donÆt have a pull gage, then as stated the wheel should rotate freely when spun, but also not have any lateral movement when you pull/push the top/bottom or on the right/left sides of the wheel. If you have any play, youÆll want to tighten them up. Make sure you seat the bearings before running the pull test. To seat the bearings you snug them down, spin the hub back and forth a couple of times, back it off, and then set the correct pressure.

Logansportage <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/patriot.gif" alt="" />