Fisrt of all
the engine has 219.000 kilometers
rumers say I got skrewed when I bought it and the clock from 182.000 was at.... 82.000Km
anyway.

When I turn on in the morning I have Blue smoke. Its oil no doubt about it.
BUT
if i immediately shut the engine ( whitch I do anyway ) and restart the smoke is gone...

Other than that no othe symptoms absolutely
no CEL no funny iddling no nothing.

If say I leave it 3-4 hours shut it doesnt re-smoke either..
It does is say if I leave it overnight only or similar period.

Note 1.
I have burned and changed head gasket about 45.000 km earlier.

Note 2
in that replacment I have changed the rubber things on the valve stem but not the metal part ( sorry dont know how it called) but the head itself was "leveled" to a machine shop.

my mind goes to burned oil that jams or "stucks" the piston rings or something similar

your ideas????

Sounds like rings to me...u can try a product like rislone or restore,these do help sometimes otherwise i'd say time to do the rings

This sounds like valve seals or valve guides! The oil in the head slowly seeps past the valve seals, or guide, and gravity pulls it into the cylinder over the course of the night. The oil builds up enough to see a noticeable cloud in the morning and then the oil is gone. There is a difference in characteristics between valve seals and valve guides.. I forget which does which.. But I know that one will do this only on a "1st start in the morning" and the other will happen during high RPM acceleration.. Similiar result as bad rings or scored bores. I wanna say the valve seals are the culprit when it's only in the morning. I don't think piston rings would be the cause in the morning start oil burn issue. But I'm not sure. Good luck! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

one other thing i forgot

if I DONT shut down it keeps burning it..

Sticky PCV valve? Usualy if you are leaking oil through your valve guides or seals it will stop blowing blue smoke once it burns off the oil, you should do a compresion and leak down test, that sould tell you the condition of your engine.

Dennis

I agree, do a dry and wet compression test. The symptoms are throwing me off, but there isn't many ways an engine can burn oil. I'd get the test for the worse case scenario out of the way first and then work your way to the less 'hair-pulling' causes. It's backwards to normal tactics, but in this case, I fear the worst. I'd want to get that off my chest and know my compression is good. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cyclops.gif" alt="" />

Dennis what is a leak down test??

the PCV is the small plastik "thing" hidden under the intake?

Compression test... not bad idea... for what is worth the power is ok..

Stuck or worn HLAs???? sometimes they are "ticking" even thow there is plenty of oil in the sump.....
( I dont mean the usual "ticking" when you start the engine...)

PCV valve is on the left side of the motor (looking at it from the front of the car) Goes into the side of the valve cover about 1/2 way back on it, connected to a hose. If it's plugged the motor will smoke pretty good.

Got it! we are talking for the same thing..

I googled it so it can be explaned better than I can explane it.

A leak down or "cylinder leakage" test is similar to a compression test in that it tells you how well your engine's cylinders are sealing. But instead of measuring pressure, it measures pressure loss.

A leak down test requires the removal of all the spark plugs. The crankshaft is then turned so that each piston is at top dead center (both valves closed) when each cylinder is tested. Most people start with cylinder number one and follow the engine's firing order.

A threaded coupling attached to a leakage gauge is screwed into a spark plug hole. Compressed air (80 to 90 psi) is then fed into the cylinder.

An engine in great condition should generally show only 5 to 10% leakage. An engine that's still in pretty good condition may show up to 20% leakage. But more than 30% leakage indicates trouble.

The neat thing about a leakage test (as opposed to a compression test) is that it's faster and easier to figure out where the pressure is going. If you hear air coming out of the tailpipe, it indicates a leaky exhaust valve. Air coming out of the throttle body or carburetor would point to a leaky intake valve. Air coming out of the breather vent or PCV valve fitting would tell you the rings and/or cylinders are worn.

A leakage test can also be used in conjunction with a compression test to diagnose other kinds of problems.

A cylinder that has poor compression, but minimal leakage, usually has a valvetrain problem such as a worn cam lobe, broken valve spring, collapsed lifter, bent push rod, etc.

If all the cylinders have low compression, but show minimal leakage, the most likely cause is incorrect valve timing. The timing belt or chain may be off a notch or two.

If compression is good and leakage is minimal, but a cylinder is misfiring or shows up weak in a power balance test, it indicates a fuel delivery (bad injector) or ignition problem (fouled spark plug or bad plug wire).

Hope that helps, Dennis