I've used the search and FAQ section, but cannot pinpoint an exact answer.

Will a 1997 LS with the 3.5L SOHC suffer from the dreaded crank pulley bolt problem?

Thanks,
Austin

All mitsu V6 engines share the same block essentially so yes older V6 engines that don't have the revised bolt will suffer

see this thread

http://www.4x4wire.com/forums/showflat.php?Number=1198177&page=0

possibly during the last T-belt replacement the bolt wasn't set to high enough torque and it just came loose.
They have a revised bolt that fits the 12 valve...
And they have a rivised bolt that fits the 24 v 3.0 / and 3.5., I reconn they could all have this problem. The recall had the Montero Sports in it but I don't remember if it included the SOHC 3.5. I'll go on AllDatapro and see if you want.

Thanks. I've checked, and it is the old style bolt, so I'll be ordering the new design from Mitsu and replacing it when it comes in. I noticed a slight wobble in the pulley when the motor was running, so I retorqued the bolt, but I want to be safe and do it the right way. Especially with all of the horror stories.

-Austin

inspect the woodruff key in the harmonic balancer. It often gets marled by the wobbling.

Okay,

I'm hoping someone here can help me out. IU've been in the process of replacing the crank pullry bolt. I used fasteddy's method of getting the bolt loosened by using the breaker bar against the frame rail, worked like a charm! Now, I'm trying to get the bolt torqued back in to the specification, but I cannot get the motor to stop turning. I know there is a tool, and a homemade version of the tool, but I cannot access either. Are there any other tricks to getting this thing torqued down without the tools?

-Austin

In a pinch, I just used a 4lb dead blow hammer on the handle of the breaker bar and whacked it damn tight.

The tool, no pictures version. Get a piece of 3/16 or 1/4" steel bar maybe 1.25-1.5" wide. Figure out how long to cut the angle piece by holding the bar with centerline on one of the holding holes in the pulley. Measure with a tape a length such that when the cutoff piece is bolted to the remaining long piece, the hole to the crank bolt is unobstructed. Measure to the far side of the long bar so you get enough length for fastening. Cut off the piece. In the long remaining bar (henceforth the handle), mark and punch a spot 1/2" from the end and one side, and drill the hole to take a bolt the size of the holding holes in the crank pulley. Install a bolt with a protrusion length equal to the depth of the holding hole plus the thickness of the retaing nut/washer, and install said nut/bolt/washer. Drill the stacked cut off piece and handle, with the cut off piece (the yoke) held in the same position as where you measuree it's length to in the first step, and install a pivot bolt and retaining nut. Hold the handle and yoke in place and mark the hole for the second holding pin on the end of the yoke piece, 1/2" from the inner edge. Install a like protruding nut/washer/bolt, and the crank holding tool is complete. I recommend sizing the handle so that it will rest on the frame rail a la the starter crankbolt removal method. Despite reported failures, I still like that one. The unfortunate just didn't hold their mouths right...

I use one of these:

http://www.brandsplace.com/0246-kd-3471.html

Find a couple of bolts that fit snugly in the crank pulley holes (they're not threaded so you need bolts that are close to the diameter of the holes) and hold the tool with one hand while you pull on your torque wrench with the other.

if you can get your hands in there you can feed a long piece of rope through a spark plug hole - don't let the end go in - and then it will keep the piston from getting to TDC.

Tool - picture version:





Frank