Some of you might recall that I did the swap involving stripping the Hyundai V6 engine down and replacing all components with parts from the Mitsubishi engine...there was a thread on here several months ago.

Soon after getting the truck on the road, I noticed a slight oil leak (size of a nickel overnight) under the truck. Looked under, and appeared to be coming from driver's side front corner of oilpan. However, upon closer inspection, it looked like it might be coming down the front of the head...bracketry involved in that area, etc, so it was tough to tell...

Long story short, it started leaking badly today. I degreased it and looked closer, but cannot really tell where it is coming from. It appears to be coming from above the AC pump area, on the front of the head. I can't see any dripping from the bottom of that bank's timing cover (the bottom edge of that is located right in the area of interest...where the oil is most prevalent). Anyway, by powers of deduction, I would say my leak is either the camshaft seal or the o-ring that's in the back of the "distributor adaptor". This o-ring is internal to the assembly. The thing is, from looking at the diagram on page 9-87 of 1989 Montero manual (free download on sticky page), I cannot tell where the o-ring sits in the housing. See, my first idea was that it was the o-ring, because the oil does not appear to be inside the timing belt cover (although I don't have it off yet). So, I assumed it might be the o-ring letting oil bypass back through the assembly toward the head, and down through the meeting flange of the distributor adaptor and head. I hope this makes sense. Anybody have any ideas here? I didn't take the distributor adaptor off the Hyundai engine, because it only had 65K, but in hindsight I should have assumed the seals might be dried up. Plus, I had the sprockets off so it would have been an EASY fix. Now, I'll have to take the whole f&^%ing front apart, retime, etc, etc, just to replace a damn o-ring and seal. (I'll naturally do both when I'm in there).

Anybody have any experience with a leak here? Please let me know, if you do...

Also, would anyone know where to get the o-ring that is in the back of the distributor adaptor? I've looked at rockauto, o'reilly, etc, and they list nothing for it. I hate to have it apart and have to try to find one from an o-ring kit at the store...that sounds a little dicey. If anyone has a part number or any info please let me know...

Thanks in advance... <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />

The 0-ring in question, I believe is Mitsubishi part number MD096909. Anyone have a site or personal catalog that will cross Mitsu part numbers for something as obscure as an o-ring? Let me know if you have any info...
I hate to have this thing down while someone measures my o-ring and I have to wait for a few days for another one...
Mitsu said a week for the dealer to get it, then he would ship it to me from there...that's a little long for me...

I have Alot of experience with that O ring.
I 'thought' that skinny one was where my leak was. So I got sloppy and in a hurry an mangle a finger between cam gear and head. Yep, known that area well...$20K in bills later and a finger I wish I would have finished off myself.

6 months after that fix I got around to going back thru the still leaking problem. The big leak I had ended up being the cam seal. Oil did not run on the inside under the cam gear or get on the belt. It was all over and around the distrib body adapter and running down behind AC braket.
The seal I replaced when I did the adapter body o ring was done wrong. I pushed it in a hair too far,,,just a hair.
I also have some wear lines on the cam sealing surface. My cams probably have 300k + on them though.
I'll look in my junk box when I get home. I have a coouple of those seals in there somewhere in the OEM packages, and get back with ya.
Another place of leaks on these is the contact area of the cam caps to head . It will look like the valve covers are leaking on the ends. A then coating of nut lock should be used as a sealant when you take cam caps off. The machine shop I used fogot this and a few other things ...

Dave,

Thanks man. Sorry you had a rough time with the fingers on the one job! [censored] man!

It sounds like what I have going on. I can't really see oil on the adapter body sides, but it's probably on the bottom. It's pretty elusive, so I'm not sure. I'll do the o-ring and also the seal - yeah, if you still have your's, then get with me with some info and we'll go from there... I appreciate your help.

I'm not excited about going back into it, but I guess I should have known to change those seals. Thought I might luck out with 65K, so I didn't touch that adapter body or the seals...no such luck, however.

Thanks again and I'll check back soon...

that's the correct part number on that skinney o ring. You might try a dodge dealer, it's the same seal as the caravan.
On the finger between the gear and head thing, just remember that the valve springs on the cam are set like a mouse trap.
I use 2 small heavy duty black paper clip things on each gear to hold the T belt on the T gears while install the belt,,,makes the job easy/ less aggrevating.

worked on it Sat. and got the o-ring and seals changed. The seal on the dist. adapt. body had a crack through both lips, so I suspect that was it.

Degreased it and took it for a spin. Oil all over the place. Can't really tell, but looks like it might be the rear main that I changed when doing the motor. WTF? I'm pretty disgusted. The thing is, I ran the engine alot, up to temp, took it for a 20 mi. drive and no real oil leakage a few weeks ago. I get it on the interstate and oil everywhere. So, I saw the oil coming down behind the AC bracket and changed cam seals and that 0-ring. Now, it almost looks like the rear main.

I replaced the pcv valve, but I'm starting to think maybe high crankcase pressure? Maybe the new valve is bad? It never did it until sustained higher rpm running... Although now, it looks like whatever is leaking is leaking all the time. What would be a good test for this - pull pcv off and simply vent through a hose to see if I still get oil leaks?

This thing has me at a loss. I've done several engines, and have never had issues like this. I don't think it's excessive blowby, because I have no smoke, etc. Just doesn't make sense to me...

Any ideas will be appreciated. I'll try to keep you guys updated... Oh, I overfilled the thing by like 1/2 - 2/3 qt, but I can't possibly see how that's contributing that much to higher crankcase pressures...

As you can see, I'm grasping at straws right now... (disgusted)... <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/angry.gif" alt="" />

Bumpity Bump.... <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/scared.gif" alt="" />

Rear cam cap plug?
MD090761 --> MD180183

can you elaborate? Do those plugs go bad often, etc?

leaking oil is just like leaking blood. It looks alot worse than it might be...
My clutch housing stays coated and it drips on the crossover pipe.
On mine oil is coming from the seam between the cam caps. Machine shop didn't use sealer. Oil leaks at those cam plugs, and the valve cover gaskets in the sharp corner near same location, too.
I probably have a leaking rear main seal, too. ARRRRGH!
Wipe the back of the heads clean( if your hand is small enough to get in there). Dad a clean towel on there the next day and see how bad it's leaking. If you can get situated under the truck just right you can see the back of the heads.
The first couple years Chrysler used the engine the cam plugs could pop out in extreme cold weather. That shouldn't occurr on that newer Japanese engine. I like to use this very expensive Toyota FIPG sealer for those plugs and valve cover gasket corners. It's thinner consistancy and much longer cure/working time makes for good performance for this slow old fart. It's like $20 a tube, but worth it to me.
I sure understand your aggrevation.