I'll definitely check the back of the heads out closer - looked the other day, thought I could see some on passenger side head, but tough spot to see... And I'll try that towel trick out - never thought of that one, but sounds like it would be effective.

Anyone have any ideas on the possibility of crankcase pressure? I say this because none of this really got bad until a couple of 50 mi trips at 75 mph... seems like too much of a coincidence...
Of course, if seals, etc are leaking anyway, it would just get worse even under normally slightly increased pressure caused by higher rpm's (I'm assuming the pressure might increase slightly before the pcv opened... Any ideas anyone?

Thanks for the input so far... <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />

I had questioned a pressure buildup in mine , too. It was awhile back but I got some good responces from those in the know on here, I just can't direct you where to find it.
On the passenger side I pulled the little breather hose off the intake hose checked by blowing thru it to see if the baffles in the valve cover were clogged. They weren't. A manual said in it somewhere to toss valve covers that got clogged...I really can't see these getting clogged enough to build up that kind of pressure unless your using vasoline intead of motor oil. There wasn't any gunk inside the little hose,,,inside the big hose ,,or any gunk on the trottle body butterfly. Wasn't any gunk in the PVC hose where it goes into the manifold either.
With the very low miles on your engine and without real obvious oil burning,,,like gunk , I'd think it's just plane leaky seal, or valve covers (the corners where a small dab of silicone goes per the manual).
.
You didn't by chance use silicone on all surfaces around the valve cover gaskets???
Doing that or overtightening the valve covers will make them leak,,,possibly big time...
.
Does the '90 have an ERG valve?????Looking for junk inside the valve is an indicator of wear also.
I really get agrevated with oil leaks. Got spoiled by my old 83 toyota that never leaked a drop. I think it's kinda the nature of this engine to be alittle messy.

Note:

No EGR on my 90 per the latest smog test.......

Thanks Pete - no EGR here, either...

Dave, only used a bit of silicone on the corners of the valve covers next to the bearings/plugs. Not leaking a drop on the front sides, and don't think leaking on the back sides (but I'll check closer). No silicone used on the rest of the gasket. Also, don't think I got the covers too tight...

I'm going to have a better look this evening over a cold beer. I'll get the damn thing up on some ramps so I can actually crawl underneath the rear of the engine easily. Hopefully I'll be able to report back with more info. I think I'll also unhook the pcv and bring the rpms up some and see what she does. Not sure if I'll be able to tell much static, but I'll give it a try...

Dave - yes, oil leaks are a PIA. However, this one is bad enough that it's spraying the crossmember where the torsion bars hang, etc. So, it's pretty bad. Just can't imagine, even if I messed up slightly when installing the rear seal, that it would be leaking that bad. That's what makes me supsect that something is "pushing" it out, or "giving it a little encouragement".

Keep the ideas coming guys - I always listen...

Clean the engine off, let it dry then sprinkle baby powder over the area in question. You should be able to find the leak pretty easily then.

*(FastEddy tip)

John B.

I think I've got some coming from the rear cam caps, but not all of it. I just can't see in there enough to tell. I'll have to give it another look. The oil looks too black on the pavement (the engine oil is still very clean) - so that's got me puzzled, too. The engine is clean (cleaned it well before putting it in), so don't know why the oil would be black from running down the exterior. Unless some of it is running from the rear main and picking up some of the black trash from the inside of the bell housing. Just not sure... I'll try to check it out this weekend. Thanks for the baby powder tip - I think I might try some foot powder spray, if I can find some cheap. Otherwise, I'll go with baby powder. Back behind the heads it will be hard to see even with the powder - I guess I'll have to break out a mirror.

On another note, does anyone have a good source for the big rubber "gasket" that is on the master cylinder? You know, the brake master cylinder, under the cap? Mine is completely trashed and it's leaking fluid. If someone could turn me on to an economical source, I would appreciate it.

Thanks!

Edit: I see Dorman makes round gaskets # 42081, 42072, 42098, 42104 - these are all for Ford, Dodge, Chevy...didn't see the D50 listed under the Dodge application for 42081. I'll see if I can find diameters for these things somewhere... OR, if anyone knows where to get diameters or even knows which one will fit a 90 mighty max, then please let me know!

<img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

I bought the white screwon cap with a new gasket from Korum Mitsu. It was $12 as I recall.
I don't know if the part number is in the repository...Hmmm

Thanks Dave - maybe I'll just check the dealer. Sucks because I don't have one locally, and Dodge seems to be much higher on their parts than Mitsu.

I didn't want to pay shipping so I went to the Dodge dealer 10 miles north in Paso Robles and they wanted $19 for the harmonic balancer bolt.
I got one at Dodge/Mitsu/Mazda 15 miles south of here for $4.00.
It's cheaper to order and pay shipping than to drive to a dealer nowadays...

It looks like the generic Dorman gaskets I saw for the master cylinder will not fit this application. I'm getting ready to call Mitsubishi. Depending on the price, I may get a master from RockAuto that includes the reservoir and cap, or I may just elect to buy the cap and gasket from Mitsu (or the gasket only).

I haven't looked at the Mitsu Fact Manual, but can those cam caps be changed with the engine in truck. I think I remember a tool required, and I'm sure they have to be pressed in from the rear, so probably a no go with so little firewall clearance. Oh well. I know it's ghetto, but has anyone tried cleaning that recessed cap area up really well, and laying a bunch of silicone over the entire cap, and then maybe greasing a steel plate up and finding a way to put pressure from firewall to the plate to "smash" the silicone against the cam plugs until silicone dries? I know it's ghetto, but I wonder if it might work? Isn't there like a 3/16" lip molded onto the head around the cam plug? That would mean 3/16 layer of silicone could be applied, maybe with pressure if a guy could put pressure on a plate like I mentioned. Then, after 12 hrs or so, remove the plates (the grease on the plate would allow one to do that). Heck, I don't know....what do you guys think? I know it's not optimal, but I'd be willing to try it if it would slow things down. (I'll have a look at the cam plugs on the engine I took out and get a better look at that recess, etc) I'm not even entirely sure that all of it is coming from the plugs, so I'll have another look at that this weekend if I can get a helper. I need someone holding rpm's up while I look from underneath after applying the powder...