On the master cyl. try Rockauto,,,make sure you click on each listing of master cylinder. Sometimes hidden in there you will find a closout on one. I saw one for like 29 bucks last week.
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I haven't done it yet but I asked the same question about replacing the plugs with the heads still on. You can. ( somebody jump in here) Unscrew the cam caps a bit pry out old plugs ,,,wet new caps with silicone ( I'd preferr Toyota FIPG ,a butyl gue, it's thinner and slower to skin up) slide thim in and tighten.
I'd sure clean cap mating surfaces with acetone and put a drop of threadlocker on surface on caps.
I smeared silicone on outside of a leaking CX 500 Honda and it plugged it for a year. but that had absolutely no pressure on it. The valve covers get pretty full of oil when running and there is a little air pressure build up, maybe enough to make it leak more than the honda.
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,,,My crossmember get alot of oil blown back on them , too.
It looks worse than it is. I've polished clean my crossmembers before so I get a good idea of how bad recent buildup of oil and grime is.
I'd slide a full length of card board under there and let the engine run 10 min., and see how much oil has dripped. That might give you a better idea of if the leak has pressure behind it, and the true rate of the leak.

Yeah, I buy lots of stuff from RockAuto. They have one for $15 right now, but doesn't include the reservoir, cap or gasket. So, I'm keeping that in mind. Mitsu wants $12 for the cap, and $12 for the gasket, so it might be better to just buy the $40 one from RockAuto that includes everything... WE'll see I guess.

How do those cam caps go on? I've looked in the factory manual, but don't quite understand it. Can someone give me a quick tutorial?

I've got to do a thorough check and see if I can determine where all of the oil is coming from...it's leaking pretty bad. Now, when I shut it off and look under, I can actually see it dripping (not good). Plus, I can see the level going down on the dipstick rather quickly. Makes me sick.

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Looks like Felpro B45682 contains both cam plugs and valve cover gaskets for 18.99 @ Autozone (they actually beat O'Reilly's price this time by $1).

My valve cover gaskets are brand new, however, so I'm not sure if I want the kit with everything or not. The plugs are 4.99 each at O'Reilly, so it would save me $9. But, if I do end up needing the valve cover gaskets, they won't have them in stock. So, what to do? I only siliconed the valve cover gaskets in the "corners" (next to the plugs). Shouldn't be a problem reusing them, I would think? Anybody?

If the rubber's not hard, you'll be fine.

yeah, they won't be hard because they're brand new. I ordered them from Rock Auto, so I don't remember what brand they are. I might just get the complete Felpro set that includes valve cover gaskets and cam plugs from O'Reilly - not sure. It's $19 for the set. O'Reilly cannot get the cam plugs by themselves unless it's by special order, in which case I have to pay like $8 freight. So, no real local source means either wait on them from RockAuto or pay the 19 for the set from O'Reilly.

I can't get a plenum gasket unless special order, either, but I think I have an extra one in my shop. I'll check this evening. If I don't have one, then I may just order everything from RockAuto.

I'm going to order the master cylinder from RockAuto, however. I'll probably wait until tomorrow when I know about the plenum gasket (whether I have one)...

And, to those guys who have used powder to check for leaks - isn't it kind of hard to get baby powder "sprinkled" all over where you need it? Like the back of the heads and top of the bellhousing, etc? I'm assuming the foot powder spray might be easier, but probably more spendy also...

Has anyone done this? How do they come out? Tap on them from the "inside"? I take it one has to loosen the cam cap...when torquing back down, should I go with the factory cam cap torque? How easy do they go in? Hopefully they slide in pretty easy, because I won't be able to "manipulate" them with the heads so close to the firewall...
Any input anybody can give me will be appreciated...I guess mainly I would like to know if they just come right out if the cam cap is loosened, or if it takes manipulation. And mainly for the opposite direction - are they going to push in by hand, or do they have to be "pressed" in? If they require much force to get in, I don't know how I'm going to apply that force.... <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" />

I just searched and found this thread:

http://www.4x4wire.com/forums/showf...&page=0&vc=1#Post1245096

But, Vman doesn't say how hard it was to install the plugs, even with the cam caps loose. Vman, you out there? I posted on that thread and brought it back from the dead in hopes that you or someone else will see the subject line and chime in...

I just tore one of mine out of the old engine, and it didn't come out that easy. And, there was really nowhere to "pry" from the inside (interior) of the head. There are a couple of small slots, and I might be able to bend an old screwdriver tip 90* about 3/4" back, and work it in there and have enough with the bent end to get the leverage. I'll have to try it and see. It seemed that when I went to put the plug back in, to try to see how tight it fit (with the cap loose), that it would be hard to just push a new one in. Maybe a block of wood prying off the firewall or something will have to work...? I'm interested in hearing how others have done this whole process...Anyone?

Thanks in advance. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />

<img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" /> I keep 4 in stock at my NAPA store and 2 on the shelf at the house. Why would they charge you freight when they order it from their DC that delivers to them every night?

Because they don't have them at the local DC, or any of their DC's, for that matter, that deliver "overnight". I've ran into that before with O'Reilly - if they don't have it at one of their DC's, then it's considered "special order" and the customer is charged freight. Anyway, it's a moot point, because I will just get the felpro kit with the plugs included.

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Oh, since you keep two on the shelf at the house, does that mean you do this job often? In the truck? If so, I'm all ears...

When I installed the rear cam plugs on my 89, I took off the rocker arm assembly then removed the plug. Install plug and then put the rocker assembly back on. Dont forget silicone in the corners.

Use the rubber glove trick to keep your VLS's from dropping all over the place. This is a good time to do the valve guide seals if needed.

Since O'rielly bought out Kragen you (and esp. their employees) get screwed. There is no reason this should not be a stock item. There are 300 trillion vehicles out there with these plugs. You have the same disadvantage as I living near small cities with limited stock , but there's still no excuse for these not to be a stock item.
When you take the valve train off that means the timing belt will need to be adjusted again. (The good thing is eventually you'll be able to do a timing belt job with your eyes closed, which at this point your probably already there).
A thin piece of plywood and possibly a brake adjusting tool might get the the angle for pressing them in. An ice pick or good seal pick set , too, (don't slip and scratch anything).
Do this in complete darkness,,,use a focused flashlight to spot the cam plugs from under the truck. You can squirm around under and get an angle and you can see them. "Polishing hard" with a rag is really the only way to clean back there. Powder is gonna be impossible to get on that upsidedownish surface and your gonna make a mess. (I've used power on the engine on oil pump gasket checks and it works good). I used UV oil dye and a black light. But with the air from the fan , etc. the dye migrates pretty soon and isn't that usefull either.
My engine drips , too.
I'm don't think Felpro v.c. gaskets have the nice little tabs on them ( maybe those without are Victor Rienze from NAPA and Carqueest).
I have bought those plug at a stealership for like $5 ea.. As metioned before the price at a dealer can vary 500% from one side of the county to another.