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Re: 1990 3.0 Distributor Adaptor O-ring [Re: justice] #1027589 05/20/11 10:41 PM
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 81
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mineitnow Offline OP
Getting the Wheeling Fever
Quote
When I installed the rear cam plugs on my 89, I took off the rocker arm assembly then removed the plug. Install plug and then put the rocker assembly back on. Dont forget silicone in the corners.

Use the rubber glove trick to keep your VLS's from dropping all over the place. This is a good time to do the valve guide seals if needed.


Can you point me toward the thread about the rockers with the rubber glove trick? I've looked at it before but can't seem to find it now. Yes, I thought of removing the rocker assembly - it would seem that would be easier than fighting installing the cam plugs. I think I will try to install on with the rear cam cap removed, and then if it's super difficult or impossible, I'll go ahead and remove the rocker. What do you think?

Silicone between the cam cap and head, otherwise it will seep right on the outside edge of the cam plug, right? I'll clean that area up really well and rtv it prior to installing the cam cap. Also, I'll rtv the corners of the valve cover gaskets...

I think the valve seals are okay (knock on wood).

Thanks for the input and if anyone else has any input at all, don't hesitate...


96 F250 4x4 Powerstroke
92 F150 4x4 Cummins 4BT Turbodiesel
90 Mitsubishi Mighty Max 4x4 3.0
Re: 1990 3.0 Distributor Adaptor O-ring [Re: mineitnow] #1027590 05/20/11 10:49 PM
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 2,324
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KrzyDav Offline
Body Damage is Cool
*****
I'd recommend "anerobic sealant" (thread locker) on the machined metal to metal surface between cam caps. Silicone is "too thick" to work effectively in that space in my opinoin and in the FSM too, although it isn't real obvious in the manual and easily overlooked,,it is there.


dave h.
'89 Raider V6 5spd;Aisin Hubs;; Gen2 LS: frt. brakes, rear coils;U.C.arms;R.trailing arms;idler arm; rear LSD axle w.disc brakes ;2 battery system for Dog's fan; relocated ECU; custom bumpers;J.Baker receiver;Conferr roofrack; t-bar crank.
Re: 1990 3.0 Distributor Adaptor O-ring [Re: KrzyDav] #1027591 05/20/11 11:08 PM
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KrzyDav Offline
Body Damage is Cool
*****
also thinking you'll find once the valve covers are off you'l find that 1" of more elbow room might just make it easier than your thinking. I hope so anyway.


dave h.
'89 Raider V6 5spd;Aisin Hubs;; Gen2 LS: frt. brakes, rear coils;U.C.arms;R.trailing arms;idler arm; rear LSD axle w.disc brakes ;2 battery system for Dog's fan; relocated ECU; custom bumpers;J.Baker receiver;Conferr roofrack; t-bar crank.
Re: 1990 3.0 Distributor Adaptor O-ring [Re: KrzyDav] #1027592 05/21/11 03:19 AM
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 3,269
justice Offline
Roll Me Over
*****
Cut the fingers off some rubber gloves. Loosen (but dont remove) the rocker assembly bolts, Use the cut off fingers and slip over the end of the rocker arms. Gently lift off the rocker assembly. Then replace the Cap. Clean, sealant and re-assemble. You shouldnt have to mess with the timing components unless you want to.

[Linked Image]

The gloves keep your valve lash adjusters from falling out of the rocker arms when you take off the assembly.

[Linked Image]

Last edited by justice; 05/21/11 03:27 AM.

99 Gen 2.5, fixing blown head gasket
89 SWB- 33's, ARB Front locker, SR rear locker/axle, SR F brakes, winch, WST Offroad Armor all Around, 2.85 Aussie T-case Gears (SOLD)
Sold: (2) 95 SR's, 86 SWB, 90LWB, 91 LWB
-Can Change a timing belt in my sleep..
Re: 1990 3.0 Distributor Adaptor O-ring [Re: justice] #1027593 05/21/11 07:56 PM
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 81
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mineitnow Offline OP
Getting the Wheeling Fever
I'm going to try like hell to get these changed with just removing the rear cam cap - I don't want to have to bust the timing again.

Thanks justice for the photos.

Thanks Dave for the advice. That sealer - the factory manual says that? That stuff seems kind of thin (locktite) - maybe the gel stuff they have out?

I agree - it's ridiculous that they do not have the stuff around here. No plenum gasket - special order (say "shipping costs") from O'Reilly. Autozone says that don't carry them. NAPA could get one the next day but it was $18. So, said the h*ll with it and ordered it all from RockAuto. So, I won't do the job until next weekend.

I hear ya Dave, about like a small hooked bar, to lever those plugs in. Maybe a small chunk of pipe to fit in the plug, and then a block or two of wood against the firewall, and a pry bar, and bingo, hopefully they'll go in. That's the only way I see to do it, since there isn't much room on the driver's side especially.

Hopefully the job will go okay and these major oil leaks will be over with. I'm not anal about leaks - I don't really care if I have seepage or a small leak. However, this is pretty bad (enough that it's misting the rear bumper). That's over the top for me.

Keep the tips and ideas coming guys...


96 F250 4x4 Powerstroke
92 F150 4x4 Cummins 4BT Turbodiesel
90 Mitsubishi Mighty Max 4x4 3.0
Re: 1990 3.0 Distributor Adaptor O-ring [Re: mineitnow] #1027594 05/22/11 12:16 AM
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KrzyDav Offline
Body Damage is Cool
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on the sealer:
It has to be thin, thats a smooth metal to metal contact.
I'll try to remember to look up what page it's on and what the special part number is for the sealant.


dave h.
'89 Raider V6 5spd;Aisin Hubs;; Gen2 LS: frt. brakes, rear coils;U.C.arms;R.trailing arms;idler arm; rear LSD axle w.disc brakes ;2 battery system for Dog's fan; relocated ECU; custom bumpers;J.Baker receiver;Conferr roofrack; t-bar crank.
Re: 1990 3.0 Distributor Adaptor O-ring [Re: KrzyDav] #1027595 05/22/11 09:28 PM
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 2,324
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KrzyDav Offline
Body Damage is Cool
*****
-
---OK I'm Wrong,,,partially,,,,on the sealant---Silicone OK (or Toyota FIPG).
In the machine shop I'd use my anerobic seal, but in your case I think you can only use the silicone. Here's why:
If you install the plugs with the cam cap loosened the silicone that you "wet" the plug with is going to squirt into the gap of the caps. Best to loosen them and wipe the silicone in. Book says try not to squirt out any onto cam shaft surface. I think if cam shaft surface has a film of oil on it you'll have no problem with that as long as it isn't an excessive amount that might get in an oiler hole.


dave h.
'89 Raider V6 5spd;Aisin Hubs;; Gen2 LS: frt. brakes, rear coils;U.C.arms;R.trailing arms;idler arm; rear LSD axle w.disc brakes ;2 battery system for Dog's fan; relocated ECU; custom bumpers;J.Baker receiver;Conferr roofrack; t-bar crank.
Re: 1990 3.0 Distributor Adaptor O-ring [Re: KrzyDav] #1027596 05/23/11 02:17 AM
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 81
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mineitnow Offline OP
Getting the Wheeling Fever
I'll have to see what I end up with. I can probably shoot some brakleen in there or something to blast that crack clear of oil. It shouldn't take too much silicone on the outside of the plug, so I'll probably try to smear a dam into the cam cap crack, also. Just enough to seal it up. We'll see how it goes...

I appreciate all your help... <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />


96 F250 4x4 Powerstroke
92 F150 4x4 Cummins 4BT Turbodiesel
90 Mitsubishi Mighty Max 4x4 3.0
Re: 1990 3.0 Distributor Adaptor O-ring [Re: mineitnow] #1027597 05/29/11 08:05 PM
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 81
M
mineitnow Offline OP
Getting the Wheeling Fever
Well guys, I'm getting ready to start this cam plug project. Got a buddy over to hand me tools and clean parts, etc, so should go a little quicker.

It helps having the old engine in the floor - I am going to loosen the cam caps/rocker bolts from the rear forward, and see how many/how far I have to loosen to gain some clearance at the rear where the plug sits. In other words, I'm going to see if I can loosen, say, the three caps, starting at the back, and loosen each one progressively less as I move forward, to gain maybe like a 1/32" or 1/16" "crack" where the cam plug sits. Hopefully I can gain just enough to get the plug in, clean the crack and dab some rtv, and retorque the caps. I'll report back and let you know how it goes...

My concern with removing the rocker assembly - isn't that rocker assembly/cam cap assembly all that holds the cam in? I believe so...therefore, I very well might end up losing time if the belt would jump on the sprocket. My thought is that the belt might put enough leverage on the camshaft to lever the cam up out of the lower bearings -- and if that happens, it will surely let the belt become loose enough to maybe jump a tooth or two on at least one sprocket... I do not want to have to bust the front open again to fix timing, if I can help it...

I'll check back on and off today, to see if anyone has any ideas... I'm open to any and all... <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />


96 F250 4x4 Powerstroke
92 F150 4x4 Cummins 4BT Turbodiesel
90 Mitsubishi Mighty Max 4x4 3.0
Re: 1990 3.0 Distributor Adaptor O-ring [Re: mineitnow] #1027598 06/02/11 02:39 AM
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 81
M
mineitnow Offline OP
Getting the Wheeling Fever
Got the plugs in - no leaks. The job wasn't too bad. I was able to loosen the rear cam caps and then loosen the next two, moving forward, progressively less. This allowed me to get about 1/16" clearance on the back cam caps, which allowed the plugs to be removed more easily and also allowed me to both clean the gap in the cam cap flange as well as work a little rtv in there. So, other than the fact that I was aggravated with myself for not doing it when the engine was on the stand...the job went pretty smoothly. Replaced the valve cover gaskets, just to be safe. Of course I replaced the plenum gasket.

Thanks guys for all your suggestions/advice/help. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />


96 F250 4x4 Powerstroke
92 F150 4x4 Cummins 4BT Turbodiesel
90 Mitsubishi Mighty Max 4x4 3.0
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