And dont forget the left over pile of scrap metal from all the screw ups im sure I'll make . I still havent figured out how im gonna get the damn dash (floor to ceiling) bar worked out? Thats gonna look like a hot mess and I really dont wanna run plate steel down through there like Poison Spyder does with some of their cages like they do for the Jeeps and I cant go through the dash cause the damn fuse box is right there? You guys got any pics of yours?

Yes

I would highly recommend picking up a program called Bend-Tech. The maker has a forum you should check out, too www.offroadfabnet.com
<img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />

[censored] thats a four door and i want to keep my rear seats. but thats a damn good lookin cage!

Go through the roof above the windshield, then you can preserve dash access. Otherwise, you should be able to go through the dash just left of the main gauge cluster and similarly on the right. There are some dash mounts that also interfere with access to the corner area along the A-pillar.

Anyone know if this is the same John Baker? LINK
BTW, I'm not trying to change the subject, just saw the name thrown out in this thread and I remembered i found this link awhile back.

I just spent 3 Miller High Lifes sitting back and forth between the drivers and passenger seat trying to figure out how to get thru the dash without pulling it out? I guess im just gonna have to partially dissasemble it and take a holesaw to it. And i dont understand what you meant by go thru right above the windshield? Im gonna have the front of the cage mount to the windshield frame like the TJ I had to retain rigidity and try to figure up a way to use a Jeep like setup with the clamps to hold the front of it watertight sandwiched against it. I need to get some measurements of some YJ's, Tj's, and new wranglers and see what top is the closest to the dimensions of the Raider so that the top can be "tailored" to fit and just rest on the cage itsself without the bows that the factory tops use. Id really like that set up cause I can unzip the rear and side windows and have a bikini top. I have no idea what a totally custom top would cost me but I would imagine it wont be cheap at all. Im gonna cut the rear door in half and use a bar like the TJ's use to sandwich the rear window in against the tailgate but I think now that im gonna put a Jeep rear bumper on it with a swingout tire carrier, Im gonna hinge the door at the bottom so it folds down instead of to the side. I wanna mount a winch under the truck where the old tank was and reinforce the floor under my fuel cell and put the fairlead thru the bumper itself. Im not going synthethic line either cause they are just to delicate against rocks and abrasions. And do any of you guys have your doors fabbed up to make them removable and be able to post pics? That would be a great help too. Thanks in advance.

Doors are simple, unless yours are wired. Buy 4 (or 8 or 6 or 10) door hinge pins. Grind off the knurling that locks them in the hinge. Drive out the old pins and insert the new removable pins. Welding little rings on the top of the new pins makes them easier to remove. You also need a quick release pin on the door travel limiter strap.

To go above the windshield you'd use the holesaw and create a portion of the tubing as an exo-cage.

If you go through the dash, you will have to remove it, making sure to clear the way of wiring, etc. in the 'way' of the cage tubing that will potentially occupy that area. The dash will have to be removeable in order to service things underneath, heater core, little stupid hose on the heater valve assm., HVAC blower motor, and some other little things.

Oh, I think I get it. And then drop back down along the A pillar (outside) and drill through the top of the quarter panel or that portion that houses the windshield wiper motor? Is that what you are talking about? That would be easier but it will make the dash bar harder to mount unless I drill back through the frame and loop it inside and back out the other side which isn't a big deal. With this little 2.6, im trying to keep as much weight off it as possible.

Just for all your fabricators out there I will have my site up in a few weeks like seat tabs, shock tabs, beadlocks and such... stay tuned <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />