Pa_Jero is NOT supposed to be telling those stories. That's the first rule of the AZ Club.

John B.

Anyone have a known good ICM/power transistor I can borrow to test with?

Did you get anything figured out with the ol truck today?

Unfortunately, no. Got everything torn town again including the timing belt, but the crank pulley is on there pretty good. Need to get a gear puller to get it off. The crank sensor blade is definitely off from what we saw on Lloyd's engine, but until I can get the gear off, I won't be able to see what's up. It doesn't appear loose however. The crank position sensor is dirty, but doesn't appear broken, and I can't find any way to test the crank sensor in the FSM. Still researching though.

Thats really crappy, I was really hoping it would've been something like that. Let me know if you need a hand with your truck. Maybe its narrowing down to pulling the motor out and actually digging deeper. Maybe the valves are damaged?

Not sure if the valves are damaged yet. I'm going to run some experiments tonight. I have a testing theory I'd like to try. Was there a crank sensor on Lloyd's engine over there? If so, I may need to borrow it to test if my theory will actually work.

Crank sensor in tact!

Good I will run by maybe tomorrow if you'll be home to check it out. Did some testing on my crank sensor and I think my theory may have worked out. I have a bit more testing to do, and I need a test light to do it.

I used a 9V battery and put a lead from the + terminal to the red power wire on the sensor connector, and a lead from the neg. terminal on the battery to the black wire on the sensor connector. Then I used a multi meter with the speaker on to check continuity between the signal wire (blue) and the ground wire. With all leads hooked up I have continuity. Using a feeler gauge to simulate the sensor blade passing through the crank sensor, it would lose continuity when the feeler gauge crosses between the magnetic field. (McGruber!) I want to try this with a test light instead of a multi-meter, but I think this may be a valid test we can use without taking the crank sensor off the engine.

At any rate, I did find something useful tonight after I finally got the crank gear off. The crank was definitely loose at some point because the two pins that hold the sensor wheel and the spacer behind it in line with the crank were imbedded in the sensor wheel approximately 3/4" from where they were supposed to be. Basically it looks like they were moved from position by the crank being loose and allowing a gap, and jammed back into the sensor blade. One was broken off in the crank gear, which I got out, but the other was still smashed into the crank sensor blade. So I may have found a cause. Maybe...

EDIT: Just so you guys have a idea of what happened, here is a pic. Note the holes where the pins are supposed to be, and then the circled areas where the pins ended up.



Interesting, eh?

I'm thinking of ordering some parts in hopes that I've found my problem. All of these, plus a crank sensor, just in case. Would you recommend I get anything else?