Good I will run by maybe tomorrow if you'll be home to check it out. Did some testing on my crank sensor and I think my theory may have worked out. I have a bit more testing to do, and I need a test light to do it.

I used a 9V battery and put a lead from the + terminal to the red power wire on the sensor connector, and a lead from the neg. terminal on the battery to the black wire on the sensor connector. Then I used a multi meter with the speaker on to check continuity between the signal wire (blue) and the ground wire. With all leads hooked up I have continuity. Using a feeler gauge to simulate the sensor blade passing through the crank sensor, it would lose continuity when the feeler gauge crosses between the magnetic field. (McGruber!) I want to try this with a test light instead of a multi-meter, but I think this may be a valid test we can use without taking the crank sensor off the engine.

At any rate, I did find something useful tonight after I finally got the crank gear off. The crank was definitely loose at some point because the two pins that hold the sensor wheel and the spacer behind it in line with the crank were imbedded in the sensor wheel approximately 3/4" from where they were supposed to be. Basically it looks like they were moved from position by the crank being loose and allowing a gap, and jammed back into the sensor blade. One was broken off in the crank gear, which I got out, but the other was still smashed into the crank sensor blade. So I may have found a cause. Maybe...

EDIT: Just so you guys have a idea of what happened, here is a pic. Note the holes where the pins are supposed to be, and then the circled areas where the pins ended up.



Interesting, eh?