Very interesting indeed. I don't know how that engine could have run like it is now. Once again, hoping this is it.

John B.

What a fabulous read... i got mine from Albuquerque (95SR) it ran to Taos and then the fuel pump went out. Never mind the whine in the rear end... until it gets louder it stays the same, right? I figured when Lloyd got a 96 it told me I was off by one year... still off. So off to AZ Differential to put in the Aussie gear and have them look at the rear end; get "toasty" to help with the sliders and I can go on another ride with the AZ crew. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />

It ran do to the fact that the wheel was some what in the right spot ... At some point I'll bet the wheel hit the crank trigger ....I called all the mechanics I know ..And know one has the numbers for a 3.5 monty crank trigger ...They said "Your the Mitsu guy...LOL..."... They have every other numbers known to man ... Take a analog ohmmeter put it on the lowest AC setting and turn over the motor ..You should get movement in the needle...Move the meter up the scale tell its not paging the needle ... Get a few other monty owners to do the same and we will have a test value ... Then ohm the crank trigger with a digital ohm meter to get a ohm value ...FSM's suck ....

Don't buy the timing belt from a dealer ..They set for years and rot .... If the belt does not smell like fresh rubber don't buy it ....

Try this number for the crank sensor:

MD303643

John B.

That's the number I got. I think haz toys was referring to the specs (numbers) of the actual sensor itself. They are not published anywhere in the FSM or anywhere else that I can find. The only listed test is with an oscilloscope, and I think most of us are lacking one.

It would be nice to figure out a test for the sensor and come up with some specs on our own. Like between x pin and y pin should be xxxohms or something like that so we have a valid test when the sensor is suspect.

I think it sounds like you've hit a sweet spot. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

Let's hope so. I got my dealer only parts (new crank sensor blade, and spring pins) today. Two DIFFERENT dealerships, but at least I got them. I happened to be on the west side today anyway. Waiting on the new parts to come in from RA. Shipped today, so hopefully mine will be here before Lloyd's parts get here. That way I can get my t-belt done before we need the cam tools for his.

Hi. My name is Jay. And I'm a wrench-a-holic...

One step forward, two steps back. Truck fired and started today. Horrible chirping/squeaking noise from the engine as it ran for a few seconds and died. Was a valiant effort, and I learned a ton up to this point, but it looks like it's gotta get yanked and rebuilt. Bummer.... Time to start re-arranging the garage.

Thanks a bunch for all the help to this point.

Check around for donor engines, maybe you can find a known good runner on the cheap.

<img src="/forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif" alt="" />