Wheel bearings: The outer bearing comes right out when you get the retainer out and remove the hub. The inside one comes out easily after gently prying the seal out. As long as the races are in decent shape, you probably don't need to replace them, but a brass punch in the appropriate size will get them out. I assume you know what you're doing when it comes to packing bearings, etc.

Idler arm isn't the same as the Pitman arm. They are on opposite sides of the center link. Pitman comes off the steering box, idler holds up the passenger side. They, along with the tie rod ends are very robust and likely won't break with you running 33's. The idler, especially, gets sloppy and will affect on-road handling in the form of wandering while you hold the steering wheel still. It's easy to check steering; have an assistant turn the wheel (engine off) from one side to the other in the "loose" area before it actually turns the wheels. You lay on the ground and look at the various steering components to see it any of the joints have sloppiness to them, i.e., they're not transferring the motion to the next part.

If you're going to pull the hubs off to change out bearings, take a look at the front half shafts that power the front wheels. If the boots are torn or if you've noticed clicking from the front end in 4WD, it may be time to re-boot or replace them.

I think you may be underestimating your vehicle. The AZ Crew wheels rocks, big ones, and nobody packs extra driveshafts simply because they don't break. I have seen a couple of broken tie rod ends, but you'd have to be getting into some v-e-r-y serious stuff to do it. Since they're small, you might want to throw in an inner and an outer in your spares.

The two doors with leaf springs don't even have to worry about the rear control arms on the suspension. If you had a V-6 with coil springs, we'd advise you to change out the arms for some from a Gen 2.

Hope that helps.

John B.