this one works great http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/E85-Ethan...id=245951910967

I have an update and a question. So this evening my check engine light finally came on. I hooked up a generic scan tool and got the code: P0115. According to Google, it points to Coolant Temp Sensor. Reading up on the code, it seems like it can explain my start issue and sometimes high idle issue. Does the consensus here agree?

Also, is this a dealer only part or can I get it from the local auto parts place? Finally, where is the sensor? I think I found it in the FSM at 14-16, part #2. Is it right under the engine cover or do I have to remove the manifold?

Thanks again for all the help folks!

Mike

CTS is on the water neck, under the cover, in front of the manifold. Should be a two wire sensor with the two connector blades in a tee shape. Your diagnosis makes pretty good sense. In my experience, it will be hardest to start in colder temps with a bad cts, and the fuel mileage should be bad as well.

Update:

I went to the local Auto Zone on Sunday and bought the sensor. It was about $20 with tax. It looked like the OEM unit, but a little longer (the thread area I believe) and no stampings of any kind. Took out the old one, which is really easy to get to BTW. With the new one, I needed more force to get it all the way in. But I did not use thread sealant or whatever is supposed to go on there. Right now, I can see about a quarter inch worth of thread sticking out...but no leaks or anything. The clip on the wiring harness broke as well (dried up plastic) but the harness connector still does its job.

So I've been driving the car for 3 days now with the new part and my idle has been perfect and the car has started every time! I think it is a little smoother too. It just might be that this one piece was my problem. This is why I bought an OBD2 car...so when something fails...the car will tell me. It is just that I had to wait for a while to get the part to fail and register with the ECU!

I reset the check engine light last night and of course will have to drive for a few more days to ensure the light does not come back on and that my issues really are resolved.

Nice to hear the good outcome.



FWIW, the earlier non-OBDII mitsu's also gave codes that you could read with an analog multimeter. OBDII just standardized it so anyone could offer a plug and play code reader and make it a little easier to read the codes. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

Yup. But with OBD2, it became a standard all had to follow. No more unique codes or methods. AND, OBD2 mandated certain systems/sensors to be part of the diagnostic ability. So in general, it just makes it easy for someone like me:-)

Now I can focus on buying tires and hitting some trails...