No reply, Lost in translation most likely.
I would love to purchase the locker for the rear.
I just need a solid contact and a place to swipe my credit card. This seems to be the only deterent for me now.
I do not wish to steal this thread. Sorry.

The 97 and older Sportages had 26 spline axels front and rear. In 98 they changed the rear to a 28 spline, but kept the 26 spline in the front. You can use the rear LSD from a 97 or older in the front if you can find one, but you will need to do some minor clearencing to keep it from contacting the inside of the case and provide enough room for proper lubrication. You need to check the clearance on both the the end away from the ring gear and also the ring gear itself.

Thanks for the info on the OBX diff. If this really works, then there is an option for a less expensive traction aid in the front for all first generation Sportage owners.

Logansportage <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/patriot.gif" alt="" />

Something else you will need is a dial indicator with a magnetic base (you can get them pretty cheap at Harbor Freight that will be accurate enough)and you will need to read about setting up a rear end unless you're going to have someone set it up for you. It is not complicated but "good enough" isn't. This has to be done correctly or you will have a noisy, short lived project.

The least expensive bearing source I found is <a href="www.blackdragonauto.com" target="_blank">BLACK DRAGON AUTO</a>. They specialize in RX7 stuff and I ordered the bearings for a 87-89 non-turbo diff. (I think it is the correct years). Fast delivery and know their stuff.
Keep us informed of how things go.

Everet <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/patriot.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

Logansportage - thanks! That bit of info really takes a load off my mind. I'll be sure to post the details of the fit of the OBX diffs once I start turning bolts.

Everet - I have a dial indicator & magnetic base already. I don't have a 7-8" micrometer yet (for measuring the preload - based on this Miata Diff R&R). And I still have to pick up some basic tools (jack stands, jack, impact wrench, etc). I have the carrier bearings - got them from RockAuto for half the price at AutoZone. I'm just waiting for the circlips to arrive at the Mazda dealer later in the week. I was hoping to find a local mechanic to do the install. But it seems none are interested in doing the job unless they can bleed my wallet for $1500+. If you know someone in the Sacramento-area that will do the job for the fair-cost of labor, let me know.

Just a thought, why not check to see if the Mazda dealer will set it up for you?

Logansportage <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/patriot.gif" alt="" />

I didn't give the idea of having a Kia or Mazda dealer do the install a second thought, simply because they usually only install OEM parts. And I've already starting buying tools to do the job. So I'm gearing up to do it myself. And following that line of thought, I have ordered the 7-8" micrometer from Enco. And I stumbled upon a heavy-duty floor jack while shopping at Costco today - 3.5 ton, steel frame, and all for $99. That's far better than what I was planning to pick up at Harbor Freight, and at a better price. Now I just need a slide hammer/puller, an impact wrench & some jack stands. Oh yeah... the circlips arrived at the Mazda dealer. So I will pick them up tomorrow afternoon... <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

You can rent a slide hammer from autozone for free. They have a tool rental program.

Everet

Everet - thanks for the tip on borrowing tools from AutoZone. That will definitely save a few $$$. On another note, I was calling around to get a price for having the bearings pressed on the new diffs, which seems to run about $15/bearing. That's much cheaper than buying a press at Harbor Freight... and spares my garage the additional clutter. One of the machine-guys gave me the name of a local shop that specializes in drive-train work. So I called to get an estimate for the install. Their pricing is much better - $100/end if I bring them the 3rd member to set up, and $300/end if they do the whole job. That's way better than the $1500 one of the local shops quoted. And the guy said they've done lots of Sportages over the years (dealer-warranty work)... and they are familiar with the OBX diffs (though they haven't installed them on a Sportage). So I'm seriously considering going that route - the 3rd member, at least...

Looking at the front and rear diffs side by side the rear looks bigger, start measureing and they are in fact the same, I think the tone ring must make the rear look bigger.
When I installed my rear LS I didn't need a slide hammer, the axles slid right out after I removed the retaining bolts. I did not remove the pinion gear from the housing so all I did was measure the postion of the ring gear and make sure it went in the same. No special tools, just a sterit ruler. I did check the contact pattern and it checked out fine. It makes no noise and runs cool. I would start looking for another LS for the front but in a year or so I am planning on selling my Kia.

Dennis

When I did my LS, I didn't need a slide hammer either. Just like Dennis, I undid the bolts and the axles slid right out. I also did not remove the pinion gear. I just pulled the diff out, then reset the gears to make sure the pattern was still good. To set the preload and back lash, I didn't have a dial indicator, but before pulling the diff out I checked with my hand to see what it felt like. I put it back just a little tighter than before and have had no problems with it other than using it enough now that it needs to be rebuilt. The Eaton design is a clutch design so it wares out. You use to be able to buy a rebuild kit, but it's no longer available.

Dennis,

If the front and rear are the same size, then I'm going to start looking for a 97 or newer that as the LS in the rear and maybe I can get a traction aid in the front. That or go with the OBX if it will fit in the front. The gear lockers would be the better way to go long term anyway.

Don't sell the KIA!!! Search and Rescue needs it.

Logansportage <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/patriot.gif" alt="" />