I spent a bit of time over the weekend beating on the front fenders and wheel wells so the beefy tires wouldn't rub (problem solved). I had to trim some of the front bumper off too, and noticed there were two metal tabs that have been added to connect the lower-portion of the bumper to the frame. I will take a picture of it and post it soon, along with the body lift.
As for the OBX diffs, I tore one of them down and took some photos, which I haven't been able to post yet because I tore down my computer for a home-renovation project. Once the PC is back together, the photos will be posted. I did find that the OBX diffs are the bare-minimum of manufacturing, though I can see how they can still be strong and hold up to the horses. There were lots of metal bits around the tapped holes and some rough-machined edges to boot. That doesn't surprise me though, because that correlates with others that have opened up the OBX diffs have found. If you want them to last, then a good cleanup of the rough spots and replacing the case bolts & belleville washers is pretty-much a must. Again, the pics will come soon. That concludes my report... <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/patriot.gif" alt="" />
Last edited by Peabody; 08/23/11 05:11 AM.
1997 Sportage 4x4, auto-trans, Warn manual hubs, 4" UPYOURKIA front lift, TJ 106AA rear springs, 2-5/8" body lift, 31x10.50 treads, SmittyBilt SRC front and XRC rear bumper, swing-out tire mount, OBX LSD front diff, Track Finder rear locker, 5.38 R&Ps and... really crappy gas mileage! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/shiner.gif" alt="" />
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