I keep thinking about those who followed the original specs for rebuilding Mitsubishi engines produced in the '80s...... 72 lb-ft, wasn't it? As the head gasket blew, I can just hear them saying "But I followed the manual exactly". Later (I suspect after consulting dealer mechanics) Mitsubishi engineers realized that more torque was needed and changed the spec to 80 lb-ft.

Then, I'm reminded of Eddy's description of using a torque wrench of which you don't know the calibration accuracy at the setting you're using......... "Going wrong with confidence".

Another thing that changes with rebuilt engines is the little burrs and scratches that you might get when you run a tap into the deck threads. You can (and should) burnish bolt threads on a wheel brush, but there's not a practical way to smooth the deck threads if needed. Will that change torque results? Yes, but how much is a futile guess. A little oil probably helps.

Yes, the oil placed on the black oxide treated bolts is to prevent rust (as is the black oxide) - but it's still oil and is still a lubricant. It's not much - but that's the idea in LIGHTLY oiling the bolt threads - not so much you risk hydro-locking, but just enough to overcome resistance from imperfect threads. The method recommended by Victor Reinz is as good as any.

It's a great world that allows folks to decide for themselves how to do things. And, it's great to have books that attempt to teach the reader how to do things - but sometimes, experience will give a fellow a different view.

Frank