I just purchased a manifold, seller mentioned putting a 2 bbl adapter and a holley 500 cfm 2bbl carb on the stock engine with fenderwell headers. any pros or cons ?

my jeep project got put on a hold after divorce. I am back on it now.

Are fenderwell headers alot noisier in the cab than the rear dump headers? I will run mufflers, this will be a street/off road vehicle.

Thank you for the input

PS! I was planning on putting a new edelbrock 600cfm 4bbl on it. I do not like power valves, and they do not like me!

The 304 needs a different intake manifold to accommodate a 4-bbl carb. I researched this issue a number of years ago and found that the 4-bbl needs a high rise manifold from one of the other AMC vehicles so equipped which included some Pacers, Matadors or Ambassadors.

However, check Edelbrock as they were supposed to be marketing a manifold that would fit.

The fender well headers may involve some articulation restrictions. personally, I am partial to the closer fit with a crossover pipe and a single exhaust.

it is an edelbrock 4bbl I bought.

Yes, but it needs an intake manifold designed for a 4-bbl carb...

As I recall, it needs a larger volume in the intake manifold.

It sounds like you have an Edelbrock "Performer" aluminum 4 barrel intake manifold, which is a good choice for a 304.
A 500 cfm 4 barrel carb would be a better choice for a otherwise bone stock 304. With a mild cam and a free flow exhaust, the 600 would work.

The stock Motorcraft 2 barrel would fit with an adapter, it works better off-road than the 500 cfm Holley 2 barrel. A Motorcraft 2 barrel 2150 from a late model 360 Grand Wagoneer has an "Aneroid" on it for altitude compensation, if you wheel in the mountains it might be a good choice, it bolts on exactly like the stock 2100.

Fenderwell headers usually place the mufflers right under the floorboards on the sides of the CJ, with the tailpipes turned out ahead of the rear wheels. I used to have a CJ setup like this. They are noisy when driving next to the center divider on the freeway, I eventually rerouted the tailpipes to the rear.

As mentioned, a large diameter (3") single exhaust works better and sounds better, too. They make headers for CJ 304's that tuck unto the framerails and allow for a conventional exhaust routing. I usually ran 2-1/4 (304)or 2-1/2" (360 & 401) headpipes to the inlet of a single 3" inlet cat-converter, then 3" pipe to a single Magnaflow muffler, then out the left rear corner of the Jeep in the same location as the stock system. I usually was able to reuse the stock exhaust hangers and onderfloor heat shields, too. The single exhaust has a more even tone, not raspy like the two turbo mufflers under the floor.

The stock CJ AMC 304 iron exhaust manifolds actually flow very well, not much to be gained with headers, especially if the engine is basically stock. The stock manifolds seal better to the heads, too. I like to use factory Mopar exhaust gaskets, spec them out for a 1989 SJ Grand Wagoneer, much better than any aftermarket header gasket! (I hope they are still available!)

Hope this helps!

Marty, that was alot of good info. I finally rec'd my intake gasket, it is a pan gasket and it came with a tube of sealer!

No gasket material on the piece of metal, and the metal needs to be bent as it is installed. Seams to me the sealant i am supposed to use will get smeared off as I put it on. Any tips for me?

Thanks in adavance.

If the intake sheet metal gasket is kinked, return it to the seller, as it's damaged too bad to be reliable.

The little tube of RTV sealer is for the water passage sealing areas at the ends of the head. A small bead is placed around each opening, on both sides of the gasket before the manifold is installed.

On the gasket, you will see there are four protrusions that will allow the steel shim gasket to lock into each head. Snap them in place on one head, then carefully flex the gasket so that you can insert the other side. Try it once or twice before you install the sealer so you can get an idea of how it fits.

Be sure to use a thin gasket sealer on the areas around the ports and between the ports so you won't have an oil or vacuum leak. Brush on Permatex #3, spray tack, Copper coat, gasgacinch etc will work. I also use some RTV silicone on the bolt threads and under their heads to help prevent oil leaks.

Alot of Jeep mechanics throw away the rubber end seals and use a 1/4" bead of RTV silicone on the ends of the block, it seems to seal better. (Make sure that the sealer has fully squeezed out from between the manifold and the block, use a mirror on the back side to see if it has). Let it cure overnight, or at least a couple hours before starting the engine.

If you use the rubber end seals from the gasket set, be sure to use a blob of RTV sealer at the junction points of the end seals.

The Grey or Black RTV Silicone sealer works better than the blue type, be sure that the RTV you use is rated for use in engines. Also be sure to clean all the gasket surfaces on the manifold and block so that they are 100% oil free for best results. Brake parts cleaner works well.

Hope this helps!

sounds just like the pain I was thinking it would be!!

thank you for the great info. I will muster up my "drive" and get on it.