I bought my Raider with a blown master/slave. I rebuilt them and got them going today. I thought I had it, then I messed with the pedal adjustment and now it is *on the edge* of letting me shift. I can even slam it into gear but is dragging the clutch just the slightest bit. It feels like if the clutch slave rod were 1/4 or 1/2" longer it would work great. I bled about a million line feet of brake fluid through it and it worked ONCE and then quit again. I feel like there must be some air, but where? <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif" alt="" />

Any help is appreciated. I gotta get this thing on the road tomorrow! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

Did you bench bleed the master? Is that even necessary for the clutch? Just asking.

John B.

Why would I bench bleed it? Its not like there's tons of AIR in there because I forgot to BENCH bleed it first and its not like its spongy as all heck because I FORGOT to bench bleed it.

OK So I'll get the stuff to bench bleed it and do that tomorrow. Dangit, I wasted so much time today!

Thanks for the reminder.

As long as you have something to catch fluid under the master cylinder, you could bleed it on the Raider. I swapped out MCs from one Montero to my Raider without any bleeding operation about 2 years ago, went about 20K miles without that being an issue.

Thanks for that info! After bleeding it so much yesterday I decided to google the subject and I came up with this cool youtube video on how to bleed the system. Its so much easier.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vKV8a0QL5uk&NR=1

Basically you start by gravity bleeding it. Once there is clean fluid coming out (right away in my case) close the bleeder valve on the slave and then use the SLAVE to push fluid back up into the master, taking any air with it and leaving fluid in the system. I am going to try this after work today and hopefully my problem will be solved! Need to get this rig on the road, I have work in 2 days.

Spent another couple of hours quality time with the Raider today and made a little progress. I'm fairly stumped about this.

1) I used a bolt as a spacer in the slave cylinder and clamped it shut so it couldn't move, this after bleeding the whole system so very very much. The clutch pedal does not move ONE LITTLE BIT. That is good, means there is not one bit of air in the lines.

2) I adjusted the pedal so that the master cylinder pushrod is nearly unthreaded from the clevis and the pedal is at the very top of its travel, the height adjustment being all the way out.

With this configuration, I can shift. It still is grabby, but its manageable.

WHAT on earth is wrong here. Did the parts house give me the wrong rebuild kit or something? This is definitely a mechanical problem now, NOT a hydraulics one as far as I can tell.

Is it possible for the clutch fork to be bent so that it needs too much travel? Is the pressure plate bent?

Thanks for any help. I'm stumped. At least its driveable now.

Just a SWAG here, but I have a vague memory of the first time I replaced a slave cylinder on my Raider of mounting it incorrectly, but I cannot remember how. You might want to look at the slave cylinder and make sure it is mounted properly. Like I said, it's a SWAG... <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cyclops.gif" alt="" />

Eric W.

did you replace the rubber clutch hose?

No I didn't replace the rubber hose. Should I do that next? Shouldn't be too expensive I guess.

The slave can only mount one way, there's just two bolts holding it on. But if there's another way to mess it up I'm sure I'll discover it.

Is the clutch arm hooked right on the pivot mushroom?

The spec for the clutch mc and sc bores should be in the fsm. If so, you can compute the slave cylinder design stroke and measure the actual stroke and see if the hydraulics are all tight and air free. Take the ratio of (master bore/2^2)/(slave bore/2^2). Divide that ratio into the measured M/C stroke and the result is the slave stroke. This is just a second check on your blocked s/c test.

I bet on some kind of mechanical problem, like wrong thickness t/o bearing, bent t/o arm, missing pushrod pieces, improper t/o arm hookup, etc...