2 methods. The linky no worky, but the fuel pump connector test only tests whether you have battery voltage and a good wire to the fuel pump, and whether the fuel pump runs. It does not include the ecu or fuel pump relay. To test the fuel pump relay, do the disco the starter wire test (disabling the starter to eliminate it's noise) and put the switch in start. In this state, the ecu fuel pump relay is on under only key switch control, and the ecu does not have control of the relay. The fuel pump should run and with good spark and proper ecu timing and fuel control, it should go bang and start. You have now tested the fuel pump and ecu fuel pump relay. If you have spark, it is not likely the ecu capacitors leaked and ate up the board trace, as no spark is a sign of that, usually. You can not test spark volts with a normal vom. There is a calibrated gap spark tester that will test spark at atmo conditions (as opposed to combustion chamber pressures and ionization state), and it's cheap, but I just put the gap to ground at about .25" and read the color. The actual arc path width is hair fine - the apparent width is just the superheated air around it. I read color for strength. Yellow is weak, bluewhite is strong. If you have the gauges made of unobtanium to test it, the spark energy should be in the 50kv rough range - the actual energy is a function of what's required to jump the gap, up to whatever the coil can generate. The old points and condenser systems made roughly 15kv in good shape, and if they deteriorated much, they fell below what was required to jump the gap. New fangled optical and magnetic systems, multiple coils, more efficient E coils like the 3.0, all generate significanlty more. Like I said, quarter inch and blue white... You seem to have enough spark.

Pull the cargo carpet and pad. There is an access plate. 14mm bolts. The fuel pump is below. The hose is a real bugger. NOTE WELL! The ONLY swivel end on the fuel pump hose, and it's often at the other end from the pump plate on the tank. You will twist the fitting off the pump if you attempt to take the hose loose there. You have to crawl under and take the other end of the hose loose. USE LINE WRENCHES and a liberal dose of your favotire penetrant (diesel fuel and dexron is mine) the night before and the night before that, too. Go careful. Get the hose, pump plate, and pump/screen out, put the tank side of the fitting in a vise, and get the hose off that way. NOTE WELL...