Well, like herpes, here I am back again.

With the generous help of Hazy's loaner parts I've tested every component of the ignition system that has been discussed.

Ignition coil, Ignition Control Module (Transistor), ECU, Fuses, Control and Fuel Relay, plugs, wires...all test good.

The ONLY thing I am not 100% certain about are the sensors in the distributor. Via the test linked to above, I confirmed that the sensor was getting power and a good ground.

Here is the text from Steps 12 and 13:
[color:"blue"]"TEST 12: Crank Sensor Signal Circuit

As mentioned earlier... the Crankshaft Position Sensor, on your 3.0L V6 Mitsubishi (or Dodge) vehicle, is two sensors in one. One part produces a Crank Sensor Signal and the other a Cam Sensor Signal.

This test step will verify that the Crank Sensor part is producing a good Signal that the PCM can use to start Ignition Spark and Fuel Injection.

IMPORTANT: If your vehicle starts and runs, then this confirms that the Crank Sensor is working and you do not need to test it, therefore, proceed with this test only if you have gotten a No Spark Result from all of the Spark Plug Wires (TEST 1) and no Spark from the Ignition Coil tower (TEST 4).

With key in the OFF position.
Disconnect the Ignition CoilÆs electrical connector. This is IMPORTANT... do not proceed with this test without disconnecting this connector.
Connect the BLACK wire of LED to the wire identified with the number 3 in the photo.
Connect the RED wire of the LED to the BATTERY (+) POSITIVE terminal.
Have your assistant crank the engine as you observe the LED Light.
The LED Light should flash on and off the whole time that the engine is cranking.

CASE 1: If the LED Light flashed on and off the whole time the engine was cranking, then the Crank Sensor part of the Crank/Cam Sensor Assembly is creating and sending its signal. The next test is to test the Cam Sensor part of the Crank Sensor, go to TEST 13.

CASE 2: If the LED Light DID NOT flash on and off the whole time the engine was cranking, then the Crankshaft Position Sensor is BAD and is the cause of the NO SPARK and CRANKS but DOES NOT START Condition. Replace the Crankshaft Position Sensor in the Distributor.

TEST 13: Cam Sensor Signal Circuit

Testing the presence of the Camshaft Position Signal is also done using an LED light and follows the same test steps you performed in TEST 12:

With key in the OFF position.
Connect the BLACK wire of LED to the wire identified with the number 4 in the photo.
Connect the RED wire of the LED to the BATTERY (+) POSITIVE terminal.
The LED may come on and stay on.
When all the connections are secure and all is ready... have your helper crank the engine.
The LED Light should flash on and off the whole time that your helper is cranking the engine.

CASE 1: If the LED Light flashed on and off the whole time the engine was cranking, then the Camshaft Sensor part of the Crank/Cam Sensor Assembly is creating and sending its signal. The cause of your No Start Condition does not lie in the Ignition System.

CASE 2: If the LED Light DID NOT flash on and off the whole time the engine was cranking, then the Camshaft Position Sensor is BAD and is the cause of the NO SPARK and CRANKS but DOES NOT START Condition. Replace the Crankshaft Position Sensor in the Distributor.[/color] "

I did not have luck with steps 12 and 13. Both gave a solid LED illumination. However, I'm not so sure that I did these 2 correctly. 2 Reasons: 1) In a previous step I did successfully confirm and witness flashing on/off signal from the Distributor sensor to the Ignition Control Module (ICM) (observed at the ICM connector). 2) If you follow the instructions in Steps 12 and 13, how can you possibly see signal coming from the Distributor if the connector is removed? Should I be splicing into the wire in order to keep the connector installed?


Another thought...I hear fuel gurgling around in the top of the engine. Is it possible that because of all the unsuccessful cranking I have a permanently flooded engine? Bad fuel from sitting so long? But would bad fuel cause no-spark? Wouldn't think so.

I have a spare known good dizzy, but I'm terrified to pull the old one and mess up the ignition timing. Is it easier than I'm imagining?

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