So after two years of owning the truck, I had to get it emissioned today and failed the NOX portion. I think I ran about 6.3 with 3 being allowed. I know that the EGR system is the best place to start, but the trouble is more time related. I have been working insane hours and don't have time to do all the diagnostics to check it out. I know it isn't as cool as the work on Lloyd's truck, but anyone from the skunkworks crew who might be willing to come by the office and put in an hour or two, I would greatly appreciate it. In fact, it would be so much help, I would be willing to offer up a lot in trade. Anyone got some time, possibly this week or weekend and willing to take a look? If not, I will try to get to it soon, but I really can use any help anyone cares to give. (623) 565-8432

Bummer on the emissions fail. Not sure if I'll have any time coming up this week or weekend, as I'm already committed to a few other projects, but I think you're right on track with the EGR. Unfortunately, most of the tests in the FSM require a hand held vacuum gauge, which isn't currently in my arsenal of tools that I've been acquiring over the past few months. The OEM EGR valve is just under $96.10 at mitsubishiparts.net, and $86.79 at Rock Auto. A lot of vacuum lines in the EGR circuit, so maybe a quick 5 min check of those would be in order. Hopefully one of the other guys can come by though.

Its probably your cat. Was your check engine light on when you took it? I would assume not but im just being sure. Every time any of us have had high readings in nox its been the cat. Buy a new one, you could probably get a universal one and have a muffler shop weld it on for like 40 to 50 bones. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

That would be my second guess.

I believe THIS is the one TOASTY recommends.

I have a Mighty-Vac, Dylan. The EGR on the 95's isn't all that difficult; it's not a carbed 2.6, after all. Remove the valve and make sure there's no deposits built up in the passages. A workable and cheap cleaning tool is nylon clothesline with the outer layer stripped off a few inches, chucked in a drill and run down the orifices.

I'll bet it's the cat as well, though. And I seriously doubt you can get a universal plus installation for under $150, but that's just an opinion.

John B.

Since CARB compliance isn't important here: Auto Zone

John B.

Thanks all for the thoughts. I checked the EGR valve itself a few months back when I was going through everything on the top of the engine trying unsuccessfully to figure out the cold idle issue and the valve itself was fine. I found and JB welded the pin-hole in the EGR pipe that the previous owner had tried to solder some time back, but its possible that hole opened up again. I also recall someone finding issue not with their valve, but with their control solenoid for the EGR system. I understand it could be the cat, but I can't help but feel the cold idle issue is related to the NOX fail since anything on the little list they gave me could affect idle as well as NOX. I would like to run through that and maybe even get it solved before dropping a couple hundred on the cat.

As for time, it isn't absolutely necessary it get done this week, any time someone could help would be great. My tags aren't due till the 31st of this month, and I have 60 days (ok, 59 left) for my free re-test. I just am putting in 10 to 12 hour days, 6 or 7 times a week this month, plus work related Christmas parties, plus a bunch of other small problems that I need to track down. I feel that the only way I am going to sort out the cold idle and possibly fix the NOX at the moment is to have a spare mind and set of hands at the shop with me if at all possible to track it down. I have free boat and camping/climbing gear rentals, discounts on the coolest outdoor gear AND Mt Dew or beer I can bribe someone with... <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

I had the same problem last year and kept beating my head against a wall testing my EGR system which seemed to be functioning correctly. It turned out to be my 1 year old catalytic converter that had failed - with a new one it sailed right through emissions.

Testing is pretty simple actually, applying a vacuum to the EGR valve line while the engine is idling should make the idle rough. Applying 12v to the EGR solenoid will open it and allow air to pass through it - no air should pass without that voltage.

Testing your converter is as easy as shooting the inlet and outlet sides with a non-contact thermometer - if its working properly the outlet will be hotter than the inlet. Personally I'd test your converter first since it's the easiest and most likely culprit.

I'd volunteer my time this weekend but I've got until the end of the year to be out of my house and need to get packing and find somewhere to live.

Jam packed with projects too (and i'm keeping most of the other guys busy with my stuff too) sorry.
But X2 on the cat, I used an auto zone one and it lasted a year or 2 in my '94 not burning oil. The MagnaFlow cats i bought when i first got my '99 still work and i've been burning oil for years which ruins them.
I don't do exhaust but i had mine done locally for under $300 and that included 2 High flow cats and a high flow muffler from MagnaFlow, I imagine the '95 would be cheaper since it only has 1 cat. If you look at your exhaust you'll see another thing that looks like a second converter, that should be a resonator and you don't need it.

Hey dylan, did you ever get this figured out?