Hey all new here and new to the 4x4 scene. I recently purchased a 1999 Kia Sportage 4x4 four door for $550. It ran, had a heater full of mice and smelled like crazy. Check engine light on, and a seller that had "messed with it" but gave up. I bought it and drove it home. Here's what it looked like:


I pulled the dash and cleaned the nest from the heater, and put it back together.




I noticed that one rear coil was cracked and that gave me the perfect excuse for a 3.5" suspension lift from upyourkia.


I'm running 31's and have a little rub that I still need to work out, but other than that I'm happy. The front diff was blown when I bought it, so I'll need to find a used one soon.

This thing is a DOG. ZERO power. I also own a 2000 Sportage, and have it to compare to, and there's a HUGE difference. I know I'm running 31's, but that shouldn't make this big of a difference. My manual hubs are unlocked, and everything spins free. I'm throwing the CEL with codes p1505 and p0116. I've already replaced the coolant temp sensor (the 2 prong one) and still receive that code. The idle air sensor has already been cleaned with carb cleaner. If I'm trying to run at 55mph down the flat, it will continuously kick out of overdrive and back into 3rd to regain speed. From there is steadily decreases. I've gone through 1/2 a tank in 50 miles too. I've already cleared the codes and they'll pop back up, sometimes throwing the light and then shutting the light off, sometimes not. I've cut the 2nd cat off too (it was plugged.) The PO had swapped the MAF with a known good one, newer air filter, and had "replaced the plugs and wires." To start it I have to floor it and crank for a good 30secs, and have to get it to idle by touching the gas. Smells kinda gassy starting up. Any ideas are welcome! I thought these little fe3's were supposed to pull!

Thanks all!

Welcome , <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />Nice buy Wats the plans

Free Repare Reference Guide

DTC Code: P0116
Description: Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor 1 Circuit Range/Performance
Probable Causes:
1.Sensor or solenoid faulty
2.Connector terminal contact is damaged or corroded
3.Wire harness - Check harness for correct voltage, open, short to ground or short to voltage
4.Update control unit software - Check for the latest control unit update
5.Powertrain or Engine Control Module faulty

DTC Code: P1500
Description: No Vehicle Speed Signal to TCM.
Probable Causes:
1.Sensor or solenoid faulty
2.Connector terminal contact is damaged or corroded
3.Wire harness - Check harness for correct voltage, open, short to ground or short to voltage
4.Update control unit software - Check for the latest control unit update
5.Powertrain or Engine Control Module faulty

OH <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/scared.gif" alt="" /> Welcome to the Forum.

The plans are just to have a vehicle I can run up and down the trails if need be, and to have something different in the school parking lot (I'm 17.)

I'm not trowing any tranny codes, just engine codes. The sensor is new, but the wiring may be suspect. What voltages am I supposed to be running at the sensor wires?

I NEED to get a new fuel filter for this rig, it feels like its starving for fuel BAD. More to come!

If you had rodents living in your Sporty, I would strongly-suspect they were chewing on the wiring somewhere. I've known several people that have experienced electrical problems that have been traced to vermin snacking on wire insulation. Corrosion can also be a culprit. I will attest to the latter being an issue on my Sportage. My windshield wipers are ungodly-slow, as are 3 of the 4 power windows. On that note, check out the connectors on the wiring harnesses located under the carpet on the front passenger-side floor board. The ECU is located there. Every Sportage if found in wrecking yard has had a rusted ECU-cover plate. So moisture seems to be a common problem in that location, which can easily get into the wires. Once you pull the rug back, you'll understand what I mean... <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/patriot.gif" alt="" />

Will do. I'm starting to suspect the ECU may be bad in the car, it runs all over the place. Recently it's been struggling to get up this one hill I go up every day on my way to school. Before I would buzz up it at 30mph in second, now it's kicking down to 1st with my foot flat to the floor bogging up it at 25mph. It's not a steep hill either! I replaced the fuel filter today and had no change in power, it was pretty plugged though, so it wasn't a waste.
I'm suspecting a wiring issue also, and wasn't pleased to find kia routed the harness though all the hard to reach areas.

Thus begins the continuity tests.

for a cheap fix check the cat out could be blocked,also check the injectors out they are cheapish made and do not hold good working pressure but the spray patten is a nice shape <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

Unfortunately, if you gutted the cats, you will loose any bottom end torque you once had. If you have plugged cats, you may have a hard time with power. Timing belt may have jumped a tooth. Also, the key in the crank that the drive pulley is on may have gone bad and you may look like your timing is good but it isn't . You might need to remove the #1 spark plug and determine tdc then check your timing marks.
The wiring at the ecu being screwed up by mice may also be a problem.

Hope it works out for you.

Everet

Great points from Everet. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" /> As far as electrical issues, my Sporty kicks a code P0171 ("system too lean"). I'm pretty sure it is caused by the mass airflow sensor getting fouled by air filter oil (K&N or Spectre type will do it). When the code kicks in, my engine starts to run a little rich, which is evident by the change in the idle RPM. And the engine runs noticeably-smoother the second I clear the code (can only read and clear codes with the engine running on my '97). So it is possible that the ECU on your Sporty may be trying to compensate for "ghost" error codes that could be a product of poor connections. If you clear your codes, either by using a code scanner or disconnecting the battery, and you notice any signs of improvement, then at least some of your problems are somewhere on the electronics-side. Could be a sensor. Could be the wiring. Food for thought... <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/patriot.gif" alt="" />

The MAF was swapped from a known good running car, and the timing belt and waterpump were replaced by me, and are in time. I didn't see any signs of a sheared key (I know it's hard to tell though.) I have the reader and clear them each time they pop up and it doesn't change anything. Even with a brand new sensor it throws the code P0116 "Engine Coolant Tempreature Circut Range/Performance Problem."

I think it's a wiring problem. BTW Everet, I got the 3.5" spacers in without using spring compressors. It was tough!