These boards rock! I am new at this Mistu game and hope my rambling is humorous instead of annoying?

Here goes!

I currently have a 1988 4x4 Raider 4cyl G54B 100K mi. I purchased this vehicle with a burned out exhaust valve in the head. The previous owner had replaced the OEM head with one from Clearwater, FL at 50K with one without the jet valves.

Pulled the head and valve was burnt and the melt-away tab was gone so (OVER HEATED Obviously), Clearwater, FL would not warranty. So, took to local machine shop that was familiar with 2.6 and had head rebuilt.

Reinstalled head and fired her up ran fine for a day and spun a main. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" />

Pulled engine, Dipped, Cleaned & painted block & replaced all bearings and went .30 on pistons and had crank repaired. Went with Castrol Dino oil 10W30 Replaced Oil Pump, guides, and did a balance shaft bypass kit. Replaced oil pressure gauge and temp gauge with Mechanical.

Got her fired up and ran good through break in other than a little bit of rattle at cold start. (Which from the boards here is normal for many.

Then a week into it, noticed a tapping coming from rockers or lifters. (Unfortunately I did not replace lifters) Popped off cover and found that exhaust side lifter 1 was completely collapsed. Replaced it and checked others.

Note: Did notice a small hairline crack in the threads of the rocker assembly, at the point where the front head cover bolt tightens in. Looks as if it doesn't go all the way down.

Started her up and drove fine for 20 miles started tapping again. Grrrr... Got to work came out end of day started no tapping until temp got normal started tapping.

So, Oil pressure gauge was at 100 at cold and gradually decreased down into the 20's. Upon acceleration it would rise into the 30-40's. A week later tapping on and off, oil pressure gauge started leaking all up in the dash dripping
down everywhere!

<img src="/forums/images/graemlins/scared.gif" alt="" />

So, removal of oil pressure gauge found that it was faulty! Reinstalled the OEM on the wrong side and blew it up. No gauge for a week, until replacement with new SUN this weekend. Same thing 100 at cold 20-30's at temp. Tapping and rattle at start persists. Then last night driving home [email]F@%king[/email] plastic oil line ruptured in engine compartment and oil left engine. Luckily I had electric oil sending unit and disconnected before damage.

<img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

Went and got copper line and fixed that SH*t for good.

So, here is where I am in need of assistance.
1) Has the balance shaft bypass affected my oil pressure? using 10W30 should I go to a 50 weight oil.

2) does anyone know if the rocker shaft assembly has any oil journals that would be affected by small crack at the point where the front head cover bolt tightens in?

Looking forward to hearing your opinions and speculations!

ShOOter
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Crap! I have been searching these boards for days and did'nt find anything. And now I noticed that there was a post today about 20- 30 at idol is normal. And I will get higher pressure with synthetic. Hmmm... I gues I could try that?

welcome to the wire. While it was certainly a lengthy intro, it was written well enough and included paragraphs (instead of one lengthy mass of text).

I'm sure someone here with more knowledge about the 2.6 will chime in shortly. I will ask if you've already read through the FAQ's and maybe even the 2.6 Turbo bible since the build process is likely relevant in many respects regardless of the turbo. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

Did you get a new oil pump? How abut new timing chain and guides and rubber teardrop chain tensioner?. Did you use the paside lower balance shaft chain guide, and did you clearance it against the lower loop of the chain? Did you use a blank round bearing in the dside balance shaft front bore to block the oil port that fed the bshaft?

Did you at least pull out the oil pressure relief piston and measure the spring?

All this stuff is relevant to the ticking, knocking you're hearing. The collapsed lifter should have been another light bulb going off. It was run hot by the PO,every single part is suspect. It ALL has to be checked against factory specs. go thru the rebuild and check the FSM in the FAQ and see what you come up with. You sound like you know your way around the garage, you just need to check it all out.

I don't even own a Gen I yet, but if the BSEK on the Astron (4G54B) is anything like the one on the Sirius (4G63T), leaving the original balance shaft bearing in place (without rotating it to block the oil passage) is a sure recipe for low oil pressure. Most kits come with the blank bearing for this purpose.

That would be my first suggestion. Would be an irritating, if not painful, lesson learned.

If your seeing 100 PSI on start-up, the problem isn't the bypass spring in the oil pump.

Normal cold oil pressure on a 2.6 is 100 - 120 PSI. Hot cruise you should see at least 70 PSI at 2500 RPM. As Eddy pointed out, if the block off sleeve is missing you will have a problem.

Noisy lifters can be metal in the oil or aerated oil.

40 PSI at cruise is too low, something is wrong.

On a fresh motor you will get a fair amount of fine metal as the rings seat, but no big chunks. I would cut the oil filter apart and inspect for bearing flakes.

You can inspect to see if the sleeve is in place by removing the balance shaft access cover. Kind of a pain to get at, but doable.

Did you get a new oil pump?

(YES)

How abut new timing chain and guides and rubber teardrop chain tensioner?.

(All new but chain & Tensioner inspected looked good)

Did you use the paside lower balance shaft chain guide, and did you clearance it against the lower loop of the chain?

(YES)

Did you use a blank round bearing in the dside balance shaft front bore to block the oil port that fed the bshaft?

( YES-Bought Kit from PCI included Chain, Blank & Pump Plug)

Did you at least pull out the oil pressure relief piston and measure the spring?

(YES- Spring new w/ Oil Pump)

The intermittent tapping is weird! Yesterday after work pumped twice fried her up and let it warm up completely at idle. Oil pressure started at 100+ and gradually reduced to 50-60 no tapping. Put it in gear drove 3 miles in city stop and go ran perfectly! No hesitation smooth as silk. then sitting at a light noticed light tapping starting, put it in neutral and revved to 3000rpm. Tapping came on loud and proud and pressure dropped to 20-25 and idle dropped to 850 rpm. Ran like crap all the way home.

So, Like I said earlier. Could the crack in the (Front Bearing Cap) 1988 Raider Manual Sec 9-36 Part # 19

If this is cracked could it affect the oil pressure in the rocker arm assembly?

I cant find any documentation on oil flow? Does the Rocker assembly get it oil from the bottom side of this from head surface?

I plan on pulling cover and inspecting and cleaning rocker assembly tomorrow.

Thanks,
ShOOter


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