random pic of raider and what i have
ok some pic of my raider
some of them were from 2010 after it sitting for almost 3 yr while i was on extend vaction with a bad motor put a well used junkyard motor that i paid 70 buck for and drove it for a yr.
traded for two car and cash. week later he threw rod.
gave him the old/ original motor a year later i got it back for less then the cash he gave me but minus a few things and a hole in the block

Good point, the pumps are differant.

The 88-89 SQ does have an extra fitting on the water pump. Its a small nipple that provides coolant to the turbo. All RWD water pumps have the same wrap around pipe the goes behind the cylinder head.

I'm not sure on the valve seats. If one was different , I'm sure it would be on the exhaust. The upside is
I have never heard of anyone having problems running a NA head on a turbo.

Kevin

My recoolection is a tad different. I think the water pumps are the same, but the steel coolant line from pump to heater stuff has the extra nipple for the turbo water return. I once bolted in the motor with the wrong pipe, and had to fab a water return into the lower rad hose with a copper tee and reducer bushings and a threaded nipple.

The 87 and older turbo motors have the fitting on the steel pipe. 88 and 89 have the water pump with the extra nipple.

Most water pumps have the boss in them where the nipple gets pressed in.

So, yes all RWD's have a wrap around pipe but there is a special pipe for the 87 and older turbo engines to provide coolant to the turbo.

ok ok so i went ot there and got what he had two short blocks one long block. an extra head with out rocker arm or cam. an extra crank in very nice conditon not sure if it been machined. two intakes, aying 4 timeing chain covers two with what looks like new water pumps. also looks as if theres two new oil pumps one was on a short block other was off. along with some new timeing chaing guides, new cam sprock and chain, and one used. some power window motors and switchs, a bunch of odds and ends that iam not sure of. i know somes for one intake, ive got an ecu, and i belive a knock bock, two turbos a cracked manifold with turbo houseing and a punched ot cat, and iam sure there is more.
but now lets talk about the good stuff the three motor.
the two short block have b/s kits the long block looks like it spun the silent shaft. other wise its all stock, theres a short block that has 10 over pistons, maybe forged? a cut crank, and the cylinder wall look just redone still fresh cross hatching, store is it spun a bearing, will know more when i get my hands dirty. i will try to get some pics up

so here goes a pile of parts

more of the pile

the two intakes and flywheel and almost new clutch and presure plat

long block

what looks like the better short block

2nd short block

ok so now where do i start. overwelmed with parts 4 heads and three block, 4 cranks. but ok honestly my fellow mitsu lovers. i do not see my self doing a turbo swap anytime soon, i just want to drive my raider so i will be useing the better of the three block as a non turbo motor ( better,stronger block) anyways what need to be done or changed to get me on the road. and i could use some help and info on how to tell what size of bearings i will need.

That one is a forged short block I bet!!!

They look cast to me. There is a small notch on each piston facing the back of the block that's typical of cast pistons.

FYI, the starion block is the same casting as most the Montero blocks. The only difference is that the Starion block has been machined for oil jets.

Pull the best block apart. Keep the rod end caps matched with the rods they came from, mark what cylinder they came from.

The bearing shells will be stamped on the backside with their size. That's a decent starting point.

First step is to see how the bearings look on the mains and rods.