I've never been a fan of flipping the ball joints. It places all the stress on the bolts to hold the ball joint on the arm, whereas the stock setup the ball joint is encased by the arm itself. Seen Aussy guys do this and rip the knuckle off the A Arm.

The tie rod flipping seems like it would be a good Idea... until you really think about it. You want to make sure your tire rods maintain an angle equal to your A-Arms or you'll get crazy bump steer when your suspension cycles up and down. As the suspension cycles the arms move closer or farther from the vehicle due to angles. A properly designed system accounts for this by placing the tie rods at the correct angle in relation to the a A arms..If you throw off this complex geometry, your wheels will move (steer) during cycling, and with an IFS especially, you don't want this. The desert racers that run long travel IFS have this down to a science. We run of the mill 4 wheelers not so much, in fact a lot of us really don't get how suspension systems work beyond how many inches of "lift" we have...A reason I respect desert racing and think we expedition types could learn a lot from it. The KOH guys are getting it now...


99 Gen 2.5, fixing blown head gasket
89 SWB- 33's, ARB Front locker, SR rear locker/axle, SR F brakes, winch, WST Offroad Armor all Around, 2.85 Aussie T-case Gears (SOLD)
Sold: (2) 95 SR's, 86 SWB, 90LWB, 91 LWB
-Can Change a timing belt in my sleep..