I know the starters are pricey, but I know a place that rebuild them for $120 which is a huge savings. If you can locate an old worn out starter I can help have it rebuilt or you may be able to have a local company rebuild it.

Hey, you can let me buy the 94 this weekend and then you'll have some money. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

I have an old worn out starter, I've thought about rebuilding it myself but i took it apart and there really doesn't seem to be anything wrong with it so i'm thinking the windings must be toast.

PAJ, i'd love to sell you my '94 this weekend but even if i did i'd have to use that money to buy another vehicle. Maybe if the missus gets a job i'll take $300 or so off the top of selling you the '94 and finish this project. I still need to help you pull a lockup trans here soon.

Toasty, use the fsm starter test procedures to test the windings. Bet it's just brushes, but starter rebuilds, even having the thing rewound, are not very expensive at a good shop. Try elec motor rebuilding shops. Brushes are cheap. The most likely failure point is the solenoid internal contacts that carry the heavy juice, and sometimes the solenoid windings themselves. How is the starter gear?

You can test the starter motor easily with jumper cables. Ground the motor frame to a car battery with the black cable to batt-. hook the red to battery +. Touch the red to the lower solenoid big bolt connector, the one that's hooked to the motor windings. motor should spin, but solenoid will not extend the gear. Now test the solenoid. Same black hookup, but hook the red to the upper solenoid fat terminal. Use a jumper wire from the red to the solenoid terminal (usually the spade connector or the smallest connector). Solenoid should extend the gear, then the motor will spin the gear. If not, remove the two jumper cables, and ohm the spade connector to frame or solenoid case. Should be an open circuit - if not, solenoid windings are bad. If test two does not extend the gear and spin the motor, the problem is that the solenoid core is not completing the circuit between the two fat terminals on the end of the solenoid. This is usually due to arc scarring of the copper disk or fat terminal ends, and if you can take the solenoid apart, you can clean these up with emery paper or a file. In any case, a solenoid is a lot cheaper than a starter.

I have a working - albeit filthy - starter sitting in my garage. It's off the 2.6L so I doubt it's got the balls to crank over a high-CR diesel, but if you want it, you've been more than helpful to me, Adam. I'd happily hand it over - even if you want to cannibalize it. Just let me know.

Maybe i should throw some brushes in it then, the solenoid kicks and the starter turns but very slowly drawing a lot of amps. Actually the very first time i had the thing tested at the auto parts store it worked great and passed, the next test it worked and then it slowed way down and failed the test.


Thanks Brian, but i have a 2.6 gear reduct starter on it now and it barely cranks it over.

May still be the solenoid contacts not passing enough juice. I'd try hand rotating the starter motor and feel for bad bushings on the shaft.

Take it apart!!! That's free, and you'll prob find that the brushes are too short. Toss in some new ones, and get it on.

I've taken it apart and everything looks good, but i don't know how long the brushes should be but they are tight on the armature. I have not taken apart the solenoid yet though, i'll do that today and bead blast the contact areas.

Oh, I stripped down the driver door today. Only the rear driver panel and windshield valance to strip down now. I need to post up some pics.