I have a 1991 Montero LWB


Today me and my mechanic friend with 35 years experience with at a dodge dealership installed a new water pump/timing belt and accessory belts. Timed it. Everything was perfect.

It also has strong spark.

As I was driving home the damn thing sputtered and then I shifted down to 4th and it stopped sputtering, then 3 miles later the thing died on me.

I think it might be the fuel pump relay. I am not positive

I took out what I thought was the relay this evening and cleaned it and it didnt rattle or anything... reinstalled it. Truck started up fine (this was after it sat for an hour) and then proceeded to run fine for about a minute and then it just lost everything and died. Not a slow die but a quick and smooth shut off.

Any ideas guys?

Any Oregon folks feel like saving my bacon? Beer or food or both rewarded.

Thanks all


~John

Cant see the truck from AZ.. Sorry had too..

Could be a number of things ... First give it some starting fluid AFTER the MASS ... Not half the can just alittle if she trys to run its a fuel problem ... If she does not try to run its no spark or spark at the wrong time ...

When I turn the key in the ignition to the last notch before the starter turns on, I cannot hear the pump prime or anything. I replaced the relay. That didn't help. Checked continuity and all that good stuff and everything checked out.

Right now I'm trying to remove the pump but I cant because I cant seem to get the fuel supply fitting undone.

Here is what I'm dealing with



Im using the handle of the oil filter wrench for leverage/support so I dont kink that metal 90 any more than I already have. I have been using PB blaster for 3 days to try and free up the threads but to no avail

Any ideas how to get this dang fitting loose before I lose my mind and torch the entire vehicle?

Thanks everyone <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif" alt="" />

~John

Go to the other end of that rubber hose and unhook it (On a SWB any how ) .. BUT dont reuse the floppy wrench you used again...You get one shot at a mitsu fuel line ..You screw it up its no fun to get off..

Mitsu fuel lines are the tights bolts known to man ...Find a line wrench ...

The annoying thing is once it is loose you'll be able to loosen it with your fingers.

Before trying to pull the pump, did you check for voltage at the terminals? It would be bad to go through all that trouble only to find you have a bad ECU.

Yeah I tried taking the line off from the other end but its just as tight. Im sure I have a better chance removing it there..

Haztoyz..
What does a line wrench do? Is it that much different than a open ended end wrench? Thanks man


Kevin...

Which terminals are you talking about? At the ecu or the battery?? Any chance you can show me a picture of these terminals?

Thanks for your time guys.

Im dead in the water till I get this figured out <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif" alt="" />

~John

Line wrench == flare wrench. It's your best bet at getting one of those fittings off without damaging anything. EDIT: They wrap around the nut better, reducing the chance of rounding them off.



Even then, I've seen Mitsu fuel fittings break flare wrenches too... as recently as last week! The real kicker is, if you use a regular box/adjustable wrench on those fittings and mess them up, you're just as likely to do the same to the ONLY replacement you can find after a solid day spent scouring the salvage yards.

Pick up a set of flares at Harbor Freight. You won't be sorry. Like Haz said, you get one shot on those before you enter the world of pain.

EDIT 2: I could be wrong, but if that assembly is anything like the DSM/Galant units, you should be able to backprobe those two wires on the pump right there next to the fitting in the picture above. Stick a couple straight pins (or straightened paper clips with an end filed to a point) into the backside of the connector right there, clip your meter to it on VDC, and turn the key. If you see 12VDC at the pump, you know your ECU is in good shape and the pump is most likely the culprit (blocked, burned, or otherwise).

GOOD LUCK!

He means a flare nut wrench so you don't round the corners off that nut. They're also handy for brake jobs. Cost me $20 for a set at a local Kragen Auto parts.



I suspect he means the one that provide power at your fuel pump. Make sure there's power there first before going through all the trouble or taking it out. If your power isnt there no amount of fixing the pump will get it to work.

You'll need 19mm for the hose side and 14mm for the tank side fittings, respectively.