While the temperture outside going up, I thoguht about getting my ac looked at. Good news is that it was converted to the new R134 coolant. Bad part is they did not upgrade the old seal and blew them out. I was trying to find a source for nylon seals kit for the montero and see about replacing all the seals myself. Also does anyone have an extra dryer or recomend one. Transmissions, electrical wiring, AC systems are my biggest weakness on working on vehicles Any help would be great thanks.

I was able to source new o-rings from dealer. Discussions range from R134a does not need special o-rings to it definitely does. I converted with "Envro-Safe" and used OEM seals about 3 years ago - it hasn't leaked yet. Don't forget to pull the evaporator for more seal replacement fun.

You can try this source for A/C parts and seals.
http://www.acsource.com/o-ringgasketassortments.aspx

He sells dryers for cheap as well.

When I put the AC back in my old Galant, I sourced the o-rings and seals from the local Mitsu parts counter. I re-used the drier, but only because I live in a desert where we never really get any rain. The plan was to run that Enviro-Safe stuff, but the shop I had check the lines didn't put a vacuum on the system - they pressurized it with nitrogen. Doh. Still, two years later, it still blows 45?F in the middle of summer.

But now I have a Raider with no AC and a couple cans of Enviro-Safe on my shelf... Hmmm...

I do not have a problem letting them charge the system, but I have problem with them charging $200 to replace the seals or I out of line?

There are a few and if you think about disconnecting all of the plumbing to do it, as well as the evaporator, it's no small job. What's the hourly rate?

Like DR1665, I evacuated the R-12..pulled a vacuum & put in 80% of the R-12 charge.My Raider A/C has been operating normally for 3 years now. My guess is that your seals failed for some other reason. I suggest replacing the seals w/ whatever is available at the parts store or dealer ; pull a vacuum & recharge. Run it & see what happens. you won't be out of but $60..My 2 cents.

Look at the A/C and see if you see dirt or oily spots at the seal areas and hose crimps ... Most times you can see a a/c leak if you know what to look at...Mitsu's leak at the a/c pump adapter to the hoses a lot...Thats just o-rings ..

What HazToys said. Get a metric o-ring assortment at Harbor Freight or equivalent. Use compressor oil to lube them during reassembly.

John B.

Thanks for the advice. You think this would be a good set?

http://www.harborfreight.com/205-piece-hnbr-o-ring-kit-67644.html

I am trying to figure out the difference on all the different materials. Nylon, Rubber, Nitrile, HNBR, Viton, etc... i would think the important part is being able to handle the the pressure and chemical resistence. Is temperture that big of a factor on theses?

I guess nobody has a size chart to know whats size and how many of each I will need for the o rings? Thanks everyone. If I am not able to find it, I will make a chart and keep track of what I used.

It looks like the HNBR is the best one to use, but I am have trouble tracking down a metric set that does not have sae mixed with them.

You don't want to use a generic chi-com o-ring if you can avoid it.

The dealer may have an assortment of the proper o-rings, or a good local parts store will have an A/C o-ring assortment in a bin that you can use to individually match them up. Most General Motors, Jeep, and Ford o-rings have been metric for quite a while. The Green or blue o-rings are suitable for R134A.

Remove the o-rings and bring in your old ones to match them up. I would suggest either tagging them to their location, or putting them in individual zip lock bags with the location written on the bag so you can keep them in the proper location. If the connections are threaded on your truck, it helps to soak the connections with your favorite penetrating oil the night before you take the system apart.

I would recommend using a new receiver-drier/accumulator, if at all possible, especially when converting the system over to R134A from R12. Also, blow out the condenser and evaporator coil to remove the old mineral oil. If you see any metallic particles in the old oil, cleaning the system is especially needed, as the metallic particles indicate that the old compressor is coming apart internally. There is a flushing solvent available to help remove the old oil. You flush the fluid through with a siphon gun and air pressure.

Some compressor designs allow you to siphon off any accumulated oil from the crankcase, too. Too much oil takes up space and lowers the efficiency of the system, so if you can remove as much oil as possible before you add the new oil, the system will work better. Some compressors can be removed from the engine, then turned upside down and drained through a plug in the side, if you can't siphon it out.

Be sure to use R134A refrigerant compatable oil, usually I use 8 oz Ester oil when I convert a vehicle. Sometimes the OEM has a TSB covering the conversion, like Chrysler did for the older models, that lists the recommended conversion oil and the amount needed.

Some shops will use pressurized nitrogen or CO2 to proof-test the system. They will charge it up then watch the pressure for signs of leakage/loss over an hour or two. The nitrogen will also dilute any air/moisture in the system, before they go ahead and evacuate it for recharge with the R134A. If your shop used nitrogen to proof test the system, they know what they are doing! They should have and probably did evacuate the system at at least 28" of vacuum for at least an hour before the system is charged. (This will pull any residual moisture out of any remaining oil). If nitrogen or CO2 was left in the system with no refrigerant, you would have no cooling effect since neither gas will have enough pressure from the AC compressor to convert back to a liquid state in the condenser. The rapid change from liquid to gas through the H-valve or orifice tube restriction is what causes the cooling effect in the evaporator coil.

Hope this helps!