DonÆt think about it; donÆt torture yourself; donÆt debate it; donÆt take the chance. Just do it. ItÆs the best $40 youÆll spend.

As some may recall, Son #2 and I have been replacing the head on the turbo truck. As seems to be the case with all my projects, it was slow going. There was no rush, Son #1 is away in college and did not take his truck, so there was plenty of transportation available.

We made a few modifications along the way: Got rid of that silly secondary air can and that PITA pipe that goes around the rear of the head along with it. Working on the back of the head is very much easier now, as is mounting and dismounting the turbo. WeÆre also giving a 3.0 L Montero air can a whirl as itÆs smaller than the stock monstrosity and fits into the slight space available much better.

Last weekend, we finally buttoned it all up. First crank was perfect. Fired right up; no smoke; built oil pressure, BUT the SOB began immediately leaking coolant.

Hell, thatÆs why we tore it all down in the first place.

Closer inspection revealed that coolant was weeping from between the block and head at the front of the engine on the exhaust side (unlike initial tear-down where the head gasket breech was apparent).

Damnà

Thinking cap ôonö as I did not want to pull the head again. We concocted several schemes to try and seal up the leak, but they were all stop-gap and I wasnÆt thrilled about any of the prospects. So, I considered the admonition given me my many wizards in the engine world: ôGo back to basics. ItÆs the easy stuff thatÆll get you.ö

Now, I know this isnÆt the recommended way, but I donÆt have a bottoming tap and didnÆt need to spend $100 to get one. I broke out my pistol cleaning kit and the can of mineral spirits. The rod with a gun-cleaning pad is a fine fit down into the holes. Each hole got the treatment twice; once with a damp pad to loosen anything up and another with a clean, dry pad to pull it out. (A couple of them needed a third swabbing.) Then, we installed and torqued (in three steps) the new bolts.

As I couldnÆt bare to see his face if it leaked again, I told him weÆd better just let it ôsetö for a bit before we pressurized the cooling system (rented pressurization kit w/ gauge). He set about his homework and I cleaned up the kitchen.

When I finished, I stealthed back out into the garage and pumped up the system. Grabbing a flashlight, I was afraid I might puke as I bent down to look for drips under the truck.

ôWhat the hell is this? No leaks." <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />

Called Son #2 to experience the buzz.

Which brings us back to the second sentence of this post: ôJust do it.ö
<img src="/forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />

Ed, I couldn't find a bottoming tap, so I just cut the taper off a regular tap with a whiz wheel. Worked fine...

Glad it's fixed. My best to you and yours...

Thank you, Eddy. My regards to your family as well.

I've been part and parcel to the "to replace or not to replace the head bolts" topic in years gone by and always kind of sided in the don't replace them camp.

Not anymore. That was as dumb a move as I've ever made working on an engine (and, many of you know that I've made a mistake or 12).

We consider ourselves lucky that the head gasket wasn't ruined (because it's a damn nice one - steel coated in silicone) and the thousandths we gained from doing what we should have done in the first place worked.

...just a forewarning to all of us who like a shortcut...

I didn't even chance it. Bought the new ones and still had a water leak with a reconditioned/resurfaced head. Had to use Steel Seal to solve the problem. Don't ask me how it works, but since I did it I haven't had a loss of water at all, and I have ridden it hard a few times.

How do you use that stuff?

Glad it fixed your problem, though.