When going with a Griffin or other race type radiator I strongly recommend the 2" core, not any big thick thing especially for slow running. ...
The 2" core is more than generous for what you need.
This is my 3.8L Gen 2
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And this is my turbo gen 1 twenty some odd years after building it. ...
OldColt: I'll keep that in mind. The guy I spoke to at Griffin broadly suggested the 2 row (1.25" tube), 2.75" thick version based on what I told him. 5500 lb. GVW vehicle crawling in 100 degree temps and 70 MPH on the highway. It was just a guesstimate without actually seeing the factory radiator.
I actually decided to go with Griffin. I shipped off a factory radiator this morning - supposed to show up there on the 6th. Once they get that we'll have a call and discuss all the details. 5500-6800 lb. GVW truck crawling in 100-105 degree temps with the air conditioning on and 70-75 on the highway in the same temps.
BTW, I think that's the first time I've seen your turbo Gen1 setup. Nice!!!
Another cause, and it's been brought up about the 3.5 DOHC's is that the water pump doesn't move a whole lot of volume. I wonder if the inlet vs. outlet temps on your present set-up is acceptable, but there just isn't enough coolant getting through. Just a thought.
John: Yea, I've been wondering that myself. Given the insane gearing my Sport has it's not unusual to pull long, very steep grades at less than 2000 RPM. I noticed today that at idle while parked, after sitting for a while in 95 degree weather the coolant temp was about 208. I revved up to 2K RPM and in less than 5 seconds the temp was down to 199 and then just stayed put until I shut it off 2-3 minutes latter. Sometimes it seems like I have enough air flow, just not enough coolant flowing through the radiator. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" />
I was thinking about speeding up the water pump just a bit but I have no idea where to get a smaller pulley.
BTW, any links for the 3.5 DOHC discussions?
Edward
