You are wrong.
You're gonna need a custom plate to replace the smaller round plate. That plate is cut and drilled to bolt to a np231, or Dana300(and maybe others). You need one that bolts to the mitsu, which is a very different pattern. The other thing to think of is that little coupler shaft and the spline/diameter, which are probably different too.

<img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />

yes but arent the bolts holes to the right of the small adaptor the same as the front bit that bolts onto the Mitsu case?

That small adapter plate needs to bolt directly to your mitsu case.
This may clear it up a lil. The red line in the pic points to the countersunk holes where the second case(for you, the mitsu) would need to bolt up. That 6-bolt pattern is different than the mitsu pattern. You'd need a plate with the mitsu pattern drilled, and the innercircle of smaller holes to bolt to the other adapter plate(which then bolts too the 231).

The red circle is where the coupler shaft would need to go into the input of the Mitsu case. That part of the shaft is 23spline, so it might fit your case.



hope that makes sense
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ok thanks thats clearer, cheers

Hi, Ian.

That's not that far off. A brand new NP231J is $600 and change from Jeep here in the States.

On a side note, have you thought about replacing the Mitsu t-case with an NP242 and then using the '231' doubler? Seems to me it would be a hell of alot simpler and you keep AWD. Unless you have a machanical speedometer, you can use the Jeep 2000s VSS with the Dakota signal converter. My entire assembly isn't much longer than than my stock Mitsu transfer case.

Something to think about ...

For all the work you will need to do, get the most 'bang for your buck' you can. Don't put two sets of the same gears in. This is way to expensive and complicated just to end up with a 2-speed.

You'd be on the right track with 1.92 and 2.72 (5.2:1), but IMHO 1.92 is useless for even mild 'wheeling. All it does is beat the hell out of your vehicle and the heavier the vehicle gets the worse that ratio is. I just came back from a nightmare vacation with a stock Sport with the factory 1.92 and 31"s - I'd forgotten the crap I had to deal with because of that ratio.:(

2.72/2.72 is MUCH better (7.4:1) but you're back to the 2-speed issue.

Can you get Mark's 3.?:1 Mitsu t-case gears? That' would be even better 3ish/2.72 - about perfect for an automatic. But they're going to be pretty expensive.

More expensive but something to consider is a Terra Low231 kit in an NP242 (which can be done, BTW) with a 231 gear reduction box in front. That's 4/2.72. That gives you 2.72 (LO), 4 (LO LO) and 10.88 (LO LO LO). Better would be 3.5:1 (LO LO) for an automatic with something like 4.90 axle gears. 10.88 is serious overkill for an automatic with 5.29s, but I guarantee that once you try it you'll never want anything else. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

What exactly do you do with your vehicle and what are you trying to accomplish?

Edward

Hi, ES,

i had not thought about a 242, does it have a centre diff in it like the paj case?

i didnt want to have to muck around with speedo stuff, that was one of the reasons to keep the
mitsu case the other was to keep active trac.

i already have the 3.15 gears in my case, but for my use its either too low or not low enough. with a doubler of 2.72 the 3.15 gears would give me a low of 113.1 which is way way too low for me. If i do this i would put the 1.90 back in , so that my low would then be 68.1 with a doubler. the doubler would effectively give me 3 possible lows as follows.

Mitsu case in low & NP in hi = 25.1 (standard)
Mitsu case in hi & NP in low = 36.1 (which is 40% lower than standard )
Mitsu case in low & NP in low = 68.1 which would be just about perfect with the auto.

I also have the 3.15 in my gen3 which has a deeper 1st gear of 3.79 (Gen2 = 2.8) , that give me about 51.1 low which I still find too low sometimes & not low enough other times. I reckon the above 68.1 would be perfect?

I use the Gen 2 for getting around the property & a standard lo is good for that as you can travel at a reasonable speed while still being in low. The 3.15 are a bit too low in that application but I live with it or slip back into hi. But I also haul around a dirty big trailer with a wood splitter attached to it as well. My mian wood cutting site is on top of a hill with a fairly steep incline. With a full trailer of wood plus the logsplitter the 3.15 are still not low enough to avoid braking. Even the Gen3 with its low of 51.1 is still not low enough, thats why I reckon the 68.1 would be good. I also 'play' in the creek which as a lot of unstable rocks in it , so a deep low is good there as well.

BTW what do you reckon about the NWFab unit?? The guys till hasnt got back to me yet if the smaller until can be fitted with the 23 spline output??


cheers

NVG242 is the equal of the activetrac. Center diff, 2wd, 4wdH, 4wdH center diff locked, 4wdlo locked. Good box. Many 231 compatible parts. Available in late 90's Heeps. Also one version in Hummer h1 and h2, iirc. See the Novak web site for more details.

Ian have you considered a torque converter lock up kit from Wholesale Auto's - $345 plus fitting. He does kits for both 4 & 5sp autos - will give around 15% improvement in low range gearing with the tc locked up.

thanks Frank, I had read about them on the Paj forum but thought they were only for the Gen3.

I'll read up a bit more on it

And, that's why I ask. Everyone needs something different. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

Re: NW That's not surprising. May not want to get involved.

Seriously, the speedometer is the very least of your worries.







These are the two harnesses I built. The first interfaces the Jeep sensor from the Terra ultra-short SYE kit to the Dakota SGI-5 signal converter. The second is the harness that interfaces the Jeep 4-WD switches with the dash 'in four wheel drive' light. The last is the actual Dakota box in the cab. It sits under my center console.

Anyway, neither of these required too many brain cells. Took me about an hour to do both. I have the wireing harness diagram somewhere, too.

Edward