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Re: Brake upgrade? [Re: TheGoat] #1046401 05/14/12 03:18 AM
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 146
Dryver Offline
Wheeler
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the answer isn't larger, the answer would be compound. look into a higher-performance brake compound. i race miatas for fun and we do just fine with the small factory brakes, BLANK (not drilled/slotted) rotors, and a good pad/brake fluid. can do 30 minutes of continuous track time with no problem.

slotted/drilled rotors aren't needed. you're just getting rid of surface area/material that can help slow you down and dissipate heat. modern pad technology doesn't really have the same "gassing" issues as when drilled/slotted rotors were developed. if you like the look, cool. otherwise..


You don't want your brakes to build heat. Cooler brakes stop better. Brake fade happens when they get hot. If hot brakes stopped better NASCAR, INDY Formula 1 etc would not have cooling ducts running to the brakes.


ok... cooler brakes do not necessarily stop better. brake pads are designed to work between certain temperatures. exceeded either way will give poor performance. cold brakes on a nascar won't slow him down neither will ones that are entirely too hot.

i'm confused about your comment anyways. i am recommending blank rotors because they have more surface area to help rid the rotors of heat.


I believe the reference is that slotted or cross-drilled rotors are supposed to allow air to flow through the rotors and cool them more effectively. I'm not so sure that's the point, though. I thought the reason for slotting and/or cross-drilling was to allow the brake dust and gases that build up between the pads and rotors to escape, thus keeping better contact between them and providing better performance.


01 Convertible; Electric Fan; 3" Up Your Kia lift spacers; Tj 104's; 31x10.5x15's on Centerlines; Rear LSD.
GONE, all I have left are a few spare parts and the wheels.
Re: Brake upgrade? [Re: Dryver] #1046402 05/14/12 05:23 AM
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 235
DRX350 Offline
Wheeler
Slotted, dimpled, rotors are to allow gasses to escape, correct.

drilled rotors started out as a weight saving measure on race vehicles (look at any modern motorcycle or high perf car), but was used later as a way to cheaply vent rotors. It's cheaper to drill than dimple or slot.

In terms of drilling for cooling, it's really minimal. As posted earlier, look up high end pads, they'll provide the best bang for the buck.

dimpled rotors are the strongest "altered" rotor, with slotted real close. Drilled rotors are real prone to warping. I used to race Vintage motorcycles, and drilling saved about 1lb/rotor, but I'd go through a set every other race, that's an extreme example, but the premise is there...


"Does this part need to be in there?"

1996 Dodge 1500 single cab / short bed, 5.9 4x4; 2" lift (springs not blocks), C.A.I and more mods to come.
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