Hi everyone!

Just wondering if anyone is aware of a brake upgrade kit for the Sportage? Or has anyone looked into the possibility of using something from a different vehicle?

I know that you can opt for slotted brake rotors, better pads, etc. etc. but has anyone actually looked into the possibility of bigger rotors and better calipers?

I have been thinking that maybe an IFS Toyota Landcruier could possibly be an option? Would be a fair amount of machine work but I think it could be done.

Any thoughts/ideas?

I'm working on rear disc brake set up but it's not going to be easy.
Keep us posted on your progress.

Everet <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/patriot.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

most complaints about brakes have to do with the pads and rotors rather than size, but compound. what's your complaint?

I have a set of front slotted & drilled rotors along with some EBC Greenstuff 6000 series pads I'll be installing in a couple of weeks.

I have no complaints, I just want something that is a bit better than what is on there now. I have plans to attempt an SR20DET engine conversion early next year... More power = more stopping power required. I drive a LC Troop Carrier as a daily driver and am reasonably happy with how they work for it, however they could be a better set up on a smaller vehicle eg. our Kia's

I also wonder if anyone has looked towards F100/F150 4x4 brake setup? We already know it is the same stud pattern, which is why we opt for the rims from them, but has anyone else tried to determine any similarities/differences?

It would be interesting if the answer has been right before our very eyes!

the answer isn't larger, the answer would be compound. look into a higher-performance brake compound. i race miatas for fun and we do just fine with the small factory brakes, BLANK (not drilled/slotted) rotors, and a good pad/brake fluid. can do 30 minutes of continuous track time with no problem.

slotted/drilled rotors aren't needed. you're just getting rid of surface area/material that can help slow you down and dissipate heat. modern pad technology doesn't really have the same "gassing" issues as when drilled/slotted rotors were developed. if you like the look, cool. otherwise..

You don't want your brakes to build heat. Cooler brakes stop better. Brake fade happens when they get hot. If hot brakes stopped better NASCAR, INDY Formula 1 etc would not have cooling ducts running to the brakes.

it's free, press harder on the pedal.

I tow a small camping trailer regularly and I've had a fair share of "O sh**" stops, and it does just fine (I live in Los Angeles County, it's a common thing).

Good rotors, pads, and tires and flush the fluid regularly does wonders for performance.

I thought I posted this for front pads:

BRAKE WORLD


The Kevlar Ti pads work great!!!

Everet <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/patriot.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

ok... cooler brakes do not necessarily stop better. brake pads are designed to work between certain temperatures. exceeded either way will give poor performance. cold brakes on a nascar won't slow him down neither will ones that are entirely too hot.

i'm confused about your comment anyways. i am recommending blank rotors because they have more surface area to help rid the rotors of heat.