Ray I know what you saying but over heating and lack of or bad
oil are two of the worst enemies of engines and lead to a large number of failures.A new filter and Mobil 1 every 5000 mi or one a year which ever comes first is a small amount to pay for peace of mind and assurance of long engine life I think its worth it.Better than most upgrades in the long run. Just saying.
I also use Pur one filters (Top Shelf <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />)which seem alot like Pep boys house brand. Good oil and filters are still alot cheaper than replacing an engine and will only be good overall for your engine.

The heretic speaks.

I would take it to an oil change place and have them put in one quart short, then drive it home and put in a quart of Dexron atf and drive it a couple of hundred miles, then do the real oil change. The Dexron will soften up and swell the seals a little, and may stop the leaking valve guide seals. The dexron is full of detergents and will really clean out the motor. I've cured valve guide seal smoke and clattering hydraulic lash adjusters in Monteros, and cured leaking can seals in a Subie H6 this way...

Don't think anyone knowledgeable would make the decision to use Mobil 1 with blinders on. Have an oil analysis or 2 (before & after) done, then decide if it's worth paying that much especially when you may not even benefit from it.

FastEddy's dextron idea sounds cool. I have ran 15w40 in my 1990 for the last million years. I started when it was smoking (heads replaced several years ago remedied this) I live in Florida so it's pretty hot here yr round. Both my trucks are now using 15w40 Rotella. I use purolater filters. Stay away from fram... My VW uses some funky German oil that my friend gets at his shop (OEM)LOL! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

I remember someone suggesting this when i searching for "oil change". Thats crazy to put ATF in there, it doesnt seem natural. My question is... is the ATF fix a permanent solution to the leaky valve guides if it stops it. The reason I ask is bc i dont need another smog cert for 2 years, and if its not perm I should wait till its closer to my smog renewal.

Also using the one quart of ATF, could i just add a quart of that now with the current oil, then after 200 miles do the full synthetic oil change?

Thanks for all the responses guys

Ray, have you priced oil lately? There's not that much difference between cheap dino oil and Mobil 1, all things considered. You still have to buy a filter. You still have to do the work. You still have to dispose of the old oil. It's not overkill.

If you're considering the ATF clean-out, I'd add two points to what FastEddy already stated (correctly, as always). He's probably suggesting to add the ATF to new oil because the ATF cleans so much. You'd want the max oil additive package from new oil to help protect the engine and to keep the crud in suspension. And adding ATF to an already full engine can mean overfilling it. This isn't good, so don't do it.

I actually went to the extra step of sending my used oil to Blackstone labs. With 176,000 miles on the engine and 5000 on the oil change, they made the suggestion to try 7000 miles and re-analyze. They didn't "look" at the oil and say that. It's a chemical analysis and testing with equipment you don't have. There are often local places that do an analysis profile. Try a heavy equipment dealer/rental place.

Or continue living in the dark ages. I'll bring candles if I stop by.

John B.

SO i did pick up a napa gold oil filter today, which only cost me $4.50ish (crazy deal), and i did check with napa to see if they had mobil 1 Dexron ATF. They did have it, but it didnt say Dexron on it or had any of the Dexron numbers, but the napa guy did say it was Mobil 1 Dexron III (whatever that means). That stuff is pricey at $10/qt.

anyone heard of "marvel mystery oil"...is using the Dexron ATF still better at cleaning and stopping valve guide seal leaks?

It can be any ATF, really, from my understanding. It has both the much higher level of detergents as well as the characteristics that cause seals to swell.

I seem to have to go to several stores to get what I need for routine maintenance. I'll get fluids from WalMart, but they don't sell the filter I want. I'll get my filters from NAPA but I won't buy fluids there due to cost. Luckily, I am on the road all day for work and can stop at one of the stores I need when I'm out and don't have to make extra trips.

I have no experience with Marvel products.

John B.

Ok so im still waiting on a response to one big question

Is the ATF with the oil change a permant solution for stopping leaky valve guide seals? or would i have to do this every year, or every 2 years?

Ok, so id like to give this a try, and i can use any full synthetic ATF, and for the 2 hundred miles i drive with the atf and new oil, can i just keep the old oil filter on there?

Based on my understanding (others please correct me as needed because I know I'm def not an expert on this) the main benefit with synthetics is they don't break down as quickly.

Certain types of driving activities like heavy acceleration, constantly carrying a heavy load, driving up hill a lot, driving in stop and go traffic all accelerate oil break down.

Do you spend more time driving in stop/go traffic or cruising at highway speeds?

As it is, you don't drive as per year much as most drivers.

Not knowing anything further, I'd be inclined to think you'd get as much wear with synthetic as non-synthetic and you should only be changing your oil 2x per year since these engine's aren't exactly harsh on oil unlike a turbo motor or one constantly used for hauling a heavier than normal load.