Well I took the Raider on a nice long trip yesterday and she overheated a couple times with me. Never completely overheated, but blew out a lot of coolant that had to be replaced.

Temperature seemed OK while running at speed until you stopped and then it shot up pretty quick. If it sat for any length of time the radiator cap would start humming and letting off a little steam. I cooled it down as best I could by pooring water on the radiator then shutting her down. I could hear the water boiling inside the head after I shut it down. I waited till it cooled off to refill the coolant.

Going to radiator shop if I have time tomorrow and diagnose it first. Hope thats the problem and nothing with the head.

Sounds like a fan clutch, or radiator problem to me. Prob not in the motor. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

Might check the water pump too. Hopefully the radiator shop can give you an idea whats going on.

Shop wants to start with fan clutch. 185 bucks parts and labor. That high, low, about the norm?

I found a used one (in my SR's case from a sport) for cheap (<$35 iirc) at a local auto salvage yard and installed it myself in very short order. You can probably do the same using basic hand tools (socket + open/closed end wrenches).

The fan clutch is 6 bolts, two on the fan shroud and 4 on the fan-waterpump joint, then either 4 or 6 on the fan-fan clutch join. The clutch itself is about $75 iirc. Seems high to me, but I do all my own wrenching.

I would count on having to have the radiator rodded out, too, about $100 around here. That I would farm out to a good radiator shop. DO NOT let them talk you into an aftermarket replacement radiator. The original tanks are much heavier metal, overall much better made. At worst, have them recore your tanks. Shops hate this route - can't mark up the parts as much.

Hmmm 6 bolt job and I found one online for 55 bucks shipped. I'm calling and canceling this job Monday morning first thing. It seemed a little high to me when he called back. I hate the fact they did not pressure/flow test the radiator first as well. I think I will take it straight to a radiator shop first cause there was air flowing on the fan at idle. Whether it was enough air I cannot tell without something to compare.

You can do a visual test of the fan clutch. Run the enigne up to operating temp. With the hood open, standing outside the vehicle, blip the throttle and cut off the key, and a good fan clutch should stop spinning as the motor does, and not keep spinning afterwards at all. The fan should be VERY stiff when hand revolved, almost unturnable by hand...

I'm junking my brown 2.6 montero. If you want I'll give you the fan clutch out of it. Just cover the shipping. It worked fine, but it has not been ran in 7 years

Also put a new radiator in has about 5,000 miles on it. Need to have a $100 and shipping for it

It is not stiff, and can easily be turned be turned by hand. I played with it before I took it to the shop, but did not know what the fan clutch was suppposed to be like. Thanks for the info. I will be ordering the new one here.
Fan Clutch