you can change the silicon oil in it for $10.00 and oz toyota sells it i did my van

Old fan clutch off. New one on the way. Only a couple bad words uttered getting that thing off. The nuts on the clutch were pretty tight and a couple pulled the stud out with them. Actually made it easier to pull the fan out of the hole after getting them all loose.

Notes to self...
1) Liquid Wrench, KD Knock'er Loose, PB Blaster, etc.
2) The above but not so much WD40 which although it may help some was really designed to displace water and not break down rust.

HTH.
<img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

a tip i found for testing touch the middle of the radiator when it warm/hot if your not get flow threw it it will stay cool/cold in middle and get warmer the closer you get to the edge. it my 88 the radi was so shot you could hear water boiling in the top and bottom but still touch every inch beside the very edge.

<img src="/forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif" alt="" />Not the fan clutch. The new one was just a tiny bit stiffer and moved basically the same amount of air at idle. I ran a test and she started boiling out coolant after about 10-15 minutes sitting at idle after being warmed up driving down the road. Would be a lot quicker in the heat of the day with the hood down.

Next up radiator test.

A radiator pressure tester can be borrowed from autozone or advance auto parts. I strongly suspect a blown head gasket. It is not real easy to test a new fan clutch unless its mounted on the motor and has been spun to distribute the silicone fluid.

Yep I'm starting to think the head gasket as well. It was just replaced about 2 years ago, and maybe 2K miles. It was done correctly and the head was reconditioned and milled flat. Studs replaced and head bolts re-torqued after being ran.

What happens is the motor will start running at fast idle and you can hear the coolant begin to boil into catch can. If you are driving the motor will cool down after you get up to speed about 30mph. As soon as you stop though the coolant will begin boiling after that from then on. You can even poor cold water on the radiator, and all it does is boil off. The coolant inside is still boiling out the catch bottle. If you let it go too long it boils out enough coolant the motor could be damaged. Don't think that has happenned yet, althought it did get pretty hot one ride.

First off where in Florida are you? Only because there a few of us spread about here. Is truck "Boiling" or is it pressure from the Head gasket leaking...When My truck did it leak-it would push fluid out esp at High speed/RPMS.

Ah Ha! Radiator pressure tester makes a discovery. 2 leaks (not in the radiator). One is (I think) where the thermostat assembly connects to the head. Pretty good leak there fluid poors down the block right underneath that connection. Probably will need a new gasket there. The other is somewhere underneath the throttle body. Slow drip from that one. Must be a hose connection somewhere underneath there that needs to be tightened.


Judging from the amount of fluid loss from a COLD motor test. The cooling system could never come up to pressure when hot and was keeping it from being able to cool causing the boil.

Thank You Autozone

OK leaks repaired. One was the radiator hose, just needed tightening. The other tightening manifold bolts seemed to cure. I ran it for a good 15 minutes idleing with no issues.

Unfortunately there is a new issue with the raider now though. The starter is either sticking or just going bad. I had to tap it with a jack handle to start the truck at the gas station, and it froze again at the house after radiator test. Always something.