One point your missing ..The cam turns half as fast as the crank ..You could be 180 out.........Try this

Pull plug number 1 ...Unhook and ground the coil wire ..Now get someone in the truck ..Put your finger over in the number 1 plug hole ..Have the person inside the truck just keep "bumping" over the starter until your finger gets "blown off" the plug hole ..The crank will be near TDC and on "compression stroke" now and not 180 off...You may have to move the crank back or forward to line up the marks a little ... You understand what I'm getting at ...??? Dont turn the key like your trying to start the truck ..Just keep hitting the key just the least amount as you can ...

Now install the distributor as you were...

Thanks Haztoys. I read about doing that but I was by myself so I tried sticking a screw driver down the spark plug hole and it felt like it was TDC... I moved the crankshaft and watch the screw driver go up and down, seemed like it was pretty close to top dead center. Hey, what do you think about me flooding it with gas? You think I am? And if so, what do I need to do to un flood it? I think I need to make sure I'm getting spark today, I'll let you know how it goes...thansk again!

Do what I told you to do and how I told you to do it ..

The screw driver can tell you where the piston is ...But the valves could be open do to the cam turns half as fast as the crank ..The only way to tell if the valves are 180 off is what I told you to do .Or pull the valve cover and make sure the valves are closed ...The screw driver trick DOE NOT WORK to see the valves ...Do as I have ask ..Please ..

And pull the plugs and clean the fuel and dry the cylinders..

David is exactly right, except the cam turns at half engine speed, not twice the same. Also, the #1 plug tower does NOT align with the contact inside the cap - take a close look inside the cap and you see the conductor from inside to outside molded inside the plastic. The proper method of aligning the distributor is to find the drilled mark on the shaft next to the gear, and the cast mark on the case, and align them, and hold that alignment as you stab the dizzy with the stud on the head aligned with the middle of the adjustment slot, allowing the shaft to turn only once it begins to engage in the gear on the cam. This initial timing must be later corrected with a timing light and the timing adjustment wire grounded at the firewall.

Egg on my face ...Hard for me to get things worded on here at time ..You on right Eddy on the half crank speed...

No biggie - the important stuff was all right. It's not as if I never made a mistake on here...

Thanks haz and eddy...i was missing alot there...your right about the spark plug contacts being different inside the cap...lol...thats might help. I'll report back once i complete all of thee above, thanks again!

hey haz, just so u know i wasnt ignoring your direction, i just didnt have somebody else with me to crank the engine...i'll give it a try today, thanks!

Ok, I got it to start back up! Whoohoo! I gotta get my radiator back in and will see if my idle is any better with the new intake manifold gaskets and new pcv valve. Thanks again. I will be reporting back soon.

ok, we are back in business...still have a high idle however... so, whats next from here? should I send in the Computer to be repaired?

the guy i bought it from originally said i just needed a new throttlebody...after i did that and a lot more i called him and he said "all i can say is have the timing professionally looked at". what could be wrong with the timing...now that i got the distributor on right i still need to finish with a timming light. any info would be great thanks!