Howdy from Idaho !! It sure has been awhile. still alive just been out. ended up having to have alot of surgery's ect and my monty has just sat in the yard finally up and about better and with a good friend or 2 want to get her going again. if anyone remembers from other posts i have on here i was i having problems with it like bucking and jumping ect. well finally figured it out with one of my good friends when its cold its not to bad when its warm its only running on 4to 5 cylinders. so what i want to just tear in there and take a look and give it a full tune up if thats the problem and i might as well do the timimg belt so on the tune up i was wondering if anyone could help me out with what all i would need.And what you all thought of those timing belt kits on ebay? thank you ... timing belt

The 95sr (I have one) Is notorius for having intake leaks/butterfly valve issues. There is a big write-up with pic's on it the actual 4x4page. When cold/warm it affects this. linky http://www.4x4wire.com/mitsubishi/tech/lower_plenum/ I had to take mine off twice to get it right. (replaced with new one)

Nice to see you in good spirits Aaron. As for that timing belt, not sure since it doesn't indicate the brand although I didn't check their part number.

Also, you need to add the other various belts, pulleys, tensioners, etc. and other parts that should also be replaced.

Last time I did all that work, it was on the 95 and the 98 back to back. Can't recall cost details between them, and also given that I replaced all the o-rings, grommets, etc. on the top end. With that as a disclaimer, my recollection is that you could get all that is that kit for ~$200 and using recognizeable name brands. If it were me, I'd go that route. Who knows, they might be made by the same people in the end.

If you go non-EOM for the water pump, plan on replacing with each belt just because. That's what I do, again, using a known aftermarket brand. They run $50 versus $150 OEM. And OEM should be replaced every other t-belt.

Thanks guys .. to me just looking under the hood and at the manual to just get at the spark plugs looks like a daunting task. wow i think they were smoking something when they thought this all out
not much of a mechanic more of a nerd so its got me a bit nervous

fyi, on a 95sr, you can replace the spark plugs and wires without taking off the plenum...i just did that over the summer, theres a few good threads on it where i posted some of my adventure.

EDIT: i had symptoms of "bucking" especially going up hill, the fix was to replace a couple coils, but i also replaced the plugs and wires...any questions on how to do this without taking off the plenum, id be happy to help

You can replace the spark plugs without taking the plenum off, but you need some wobbly joints, hands of a small spider monkey, and patience. Have to remove the coil from cylinder 6 to get enough slack on the wire to remove the boot on cylinder 3. See poor example below.

5 6
3 4
1 2

It takes roughly 20 minutes to remove the plenum. I'd go that route to save some grief, and it makes diagnosing/replacing coils, plugs, wires that much easier. Plus you can inspect the intake butterflies for any bad bushings or loose screws if you haven't done that in a while.

I'm using the timing belt "kit" from Rock Auto. BECK/ARNLEY Part # 0291078. Comes with the belt, tensioner, tensioner pulley, and idler pulley. 10K miles and so far so good. Also bought an Aisin water pump from Rock Auto as well.

One again guys thanks for all the info and help. Until my friends are ready to help it will have to wait after ready Vipers posts sounds like coil problems. now can't decided between the timing belt kit from ebay or rock auto the ebay kit seems to have more with it.. any one want to share there wisdom on this one... ?

Good post! Keep us posted about your progress as I have to do that timing belt / water pump job myself. Will probably go with the Rock auto kit.

I had the same issue as you...running poorly, missing...it got worse. I took the manifold off and found my butterfly valves were sucked into the valves and chopped up. Luckily it did not effect compression (did a leak down). The problem was the bits and peices of the valves had destroyed the spark plugs. I replaced all and it is running fine.

One note...if you are cheap like me, you don' thave to buy a new manifold with new butterflies. I just removed the butterfly shaft entirely and used JB weld to seal up the holes on the ends to the outside world, disconnected and removed the vacuum actuator.

The truck rides fine with this setup, although if I had to do it again, I would have TIG welded permanent plates where the butterflies used to be so that the manifold is in "low RPM torque mode" all the time, since I think the truck spends most of its time below 3,000 RPM and the torque would be welcomed.

Best regards.