Geocrasher: if I wasn't on the wrong coast I'd swap the rims right now!! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/notooth.gif" alt="" /> Thanks DR.

So I decided to keep it all in one place on the build thread as I move on just to make it simple if I happen to have any information that can help.

This week I tackled a Body Lift from 4-Crawler. I've used his equipment before on two other rigs and liked the quality over the other brands so when I found out that this was the only "out of box" option I wasn't too concerned. I ordered the 1" Standard Hardware version and with shipping it was a cool $93.50. My rig is a 89 SWB 2.6L 5-Speed so it had 10 body mounts to deal with.

Removed the fuel filler screws. On loosening all of the mounts I only ran into two unique things that will be regurgitated from other posts that I found on here (THANKS GUYS!); the rear corner body mounts that are only accessible by removing the tail lights and the front ones that require removing the metallic tape coving the top of the bolt on the front two. Once all of these were loose around the vehicle I grabbed my floor jack and built a quick "Body Lift Tool" that I've been using on every one I've ever done (over 20 for sure). I slide the floor jack under the side of the body between the frame rail and the rocker panel, place a 2x4 about 2.5' long above it and measure the distance between the completely lowered jack and the wood. I then cut two more 2x4 pieces that length and make a short "T" with some wood screws. This distributes the weight of the body over a large area and doesn't require the use of HiLift jacks. Easy-Peasy.

Next I lifted the Driver's side first just enough to get the puck inserted on the inner rear body mount. I removed each bolt one at a time and placed the puck after each one and new longer hardware. This is when I ran into my first hiccup; the bolts on the body mounts that reside beneath the taillights are 1" longer than the rest. All of my 4-Crawler hardware was the same length. I left the shorter bolt in place to help hold everything together and duplicated on the passenger side. A quick trip to Lowe's and I had two longer bolts for the ripe price of $3.50.

With it being only a 1" BL I didn't have to invert the bolts under the taillights or the ones in front of the rear tires.

The rear bumper is of course lower so I removed the step plates to fit it back to it's factory holes. I believe I will modify the mounts to move the bumper up instead of cutting around the steps. This was it keeps the wiring, fuel tank and other out of site and matches back up to the body line. This will take a little cutting and welding tho.

Shifter felt low before the lift so this didn't matter much. The brake lines on the front moved slightly but not even enough to pull out the grommets. The fuel hose still reached with slight pressure.

Here is a pic of the after as there is a pic of before above. only noticeable on the bumper lines and clearance above the front tire. Sorry for the exposure but the sun was coming up this morning.



Until next time which should be the rear springs, Fr and Rear shocks. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />