50/50 on the woodruff key, at least on the two engines I've worked on so far with this issue. On mine, the key was fine, on Lloyd's engine the key was jacked up and had to be replaced. Both sprockets were ok though. New roll pins can be installed in the sprocket to seat the crank position sensor blade, which we may want to inspect as well. My roll pins had sheared off and messed up the crank sensor blade, as well as taking out the crank position sensor when the sprocket was no longer being held in by the crank bolt. I've got all the part numbers for these somewhere, since I've ordered every one of them. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" />

FE's broken bolt removal tips:

A hammer drill with left hand bits is very nice
spiral flute extractors work best
drill as large a hole as you can without eating threads
Start with a very small drill bit and work up in size, or you'll fry bits
in any case, lube the drill bits
whammo the snot out of the bolt stub before inserting the easy out, and hit it several times
with the ez out inserted, using a knuckle buster adj wrench, put the ez out under heavy torque, short of stripping/snapping it (it's case hardened steel, and WILL snap under too much torque) and while holding the torque, apply sharp blows to the front end of the ez out.

The purpose of the above procedure is to shock loose any corrosion/crud holding the stub in place, and the shocks will help overcome simple friction.

Also, an overnight soaking with a 50-50 mix of acetone and dexron aft will help a lot, plus another spray just before you start with the ez out.

I bet the belleville washer got lost in the process? In any case, order a new one. The convex shape cushions the bolt. Of course, order the last version bolt, with the short hex.

And may St Hubert of Liege, aka St. Untwistus, guide you along your way, and that you do not need St. Barbara...

Just the advice I needed - six months ago. My 94' Monty's bolt snapped off in White Silver Springs, Montana this summer when my daughter and wife were on their way to a calf branding. No one there had seen a Montero before let alone knew how to fix this. I was at home 2,000 miles away. A mechanic (the father of a town council member) there tried his best but to no avail. I sold it to him for $200 - less than the almost new tires were worth.

If anyone wants a parts car (it is in otherwise good shape and I think the engine may still be good) ask about it at the Exxon station in White Silver Springs. It is in the mechanic's car graveyard.

Sigh.

How many miles on your existing timing belt? If you're getting close to replacement time you might as well do it now, along with the water pump, crank seal, tensioner, idler pulley (maybe the bearing noise you're hearing), etc.

I have the receipts on the last t.b. service from when Monte3 had the truck, so I'll check. I don't even think it's 35,000 since it's been done, and the next 20,000 miles will take me 4-5 years to put on since I don't drive it nearly as much as I used to.

FastEddy, your descriptions almost make things sound fun. It sure is fun to read them.

Thanks everyone, I appreciate it.

John B.

Good Luck with it, hope this gets fixed soon,

I have been there Twice!!
the very old bad bolt broke off in 2007 and the #2 also broke in 2010, now with the shorter bolt #3, hoping this will stay longer <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

I even kept the #2 broken bolt next to where I keep my keys as a Reminder and I occasionally get under the car and look & check if all is well down there

Good Luck <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

ARP makes a 12 point headed crank bolt that is for the DSM 2.0 cars. I plan on using that on both my trucks next time around since the Montero has a 1st gen bolt and the Raider has a 2nd gen bolt. the ARP bolt comes with its own washer as well. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

Did this on 1990 Montero- Left hand drill bits- Drill center out and slowly go larger- When gets real thin- use a pick and usually piece will just spin right out- I couldn't really see into hole except with mirrior and cell phone camera- I would start working- take a picture and email it to myself and look at it blown up. May just screw out with first drill-due to Left handed bit. How many miles were on truck?

Timing belt was last done on this engine at 161,500 miles; truck now has 188,000. Almost four years of ownership and a whopping 27K miles.

I did absolutely nothing yesterday. Gotta get on this today, though. Must have had something to do with staying at my brother's house drinking beer until the wee hours Thursday night...

First determining factor will be the clearance I end up with after removing the radiator. I'm removing that not only for clearance, but also to see about lowering it 2" since the shroud would grind on the fan at times when wheeling.

I'll probably slap some new belts on as well, provided the rest of the operation goes smoothly. Just waiting on some daylight now...

John B.

you might want to replace your harmonic balancer/crank pulley. I noticed on my Raider before I replaced it, the pulley was wobbling pretty badly, and that could of been a factor that contributed to the bolt in your SR breaking. If you reuse it, you might just end up breaking the next bolt. Definitely worth the $120 for piece of mind. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />