Yeah that is a last ditch effort, I've had to do it to a few things over the years and it's hit and miss as far as having usable threads when you're done.

Toasty, I sent you a picture of the bolt before the second, bigger E-Z Out broke off in there.

John B.

The easy out is tapered so when you hammer it in it is forcing the shell of the bolt against the threads making it more difficult to remove. Being tapered you should be able to work it out with small screw drivers or picks. If you can force the easy out left,right,up,down, buy prying or tapping a screw driver in the small spaces next to it. Because of its taper any movement of the easy out is good and will help in dislodging it.

If you have a drilled out bolt, you can cut through the bolt and into the treads of the crank with a cut down hacksaw or the screw head file. The goal is to completely cut the bolt this removes all it strength and reduces its size. I have removed two bolts this way, once they were cut they would fold on in on them selves with a screw driver driven behind one edge of the bolt and screw right out. The screw head file makes a very little slot in the crank threads leaving over 90% of them. The two crank bolts I have done this way lasted over 5 years each till the trucks died of other none related problems.
Give me a call and I will explain it better.

I dunno if you have tried this yet? If so sorry if not, I have had a lot of luck with doing this in the past.
http://www.galantvr4.org/ubbthreads/show...rev=#Post767790

If all else fails, maybe it's time to start looking for a 6G75 3.8 liter block in the wrecking yards.

I've done the cutting torch bit before, but only on crawler tractors, like Cat bulldozers, and it was not in a blind hole. The bolts that hold the track tread plates to the track chain were almost always stuck beyond removal without tearing up the bolt heads, due to impacted grit. We'd tear up the bolt head, then fire up the cutting torch, doing a long preheat, and when you hit the oxy, it blew out the bolt and left the threads almost clean, nothing a chasing tap could not handle.

Motero's idea is on deck. Thanks again, everybody. I'll keep ya posted.

John B.

Hey, I know I have been MIA for some time now. Lots of work, life sucks... blah blah blah...

All that aside, sorry to hear it has been such a rough one for you John. I wouldn't give up though, and I wouldn't be too worried about thread damage since the Thread-Serts work so well. Obviously it is nicer if you can get it out with serviceable threads, but replacing them is a lot easier than what you have already been through...

I could certainly use the excuse to come back to the world of the living, if I can come by any particular time and take a look, I would be happy to. Maybe my eye can see something else that hasn't been seen so far. Let me know....

This is bad, I'm thinking there is a piece of easy out between the bolt threads and crank threads and it's ben turned into the threads. There was a hole clean through the bolt and maybe 3/4" of the bolt left. I tried welding it out yesterday and i broke 9 large nuts off on it and it didn't even budge. We're in deep.

Crap, that is rough... Johnny could have my engine if I was ready for the 3.2L diesel swap I am planning on. Unfortunately I am not in a place to have the $4000 I need to order it yet...