Yep. Enough to try, anyway. There are threads deeper in that are untouched. It should be O.K.

John B.

How about adding a thick lock washer to the stack? Will that allow it not to bottom out? Or whiz wheel off a few mm's of bolt?

I'll check the efficacy of adding the lock washer. I'll be using the old HB with the new bolt to test fit and to use as a drill guide for the locating pin, so I can see how much room is needed to take up the slack on the bolt.

I'm thinking I'll drill out the old locating pin, then set the new one in, possibly with some JB Weld to fill in around it before I put the new HB on. I realize I should replace the gear, Justice, but that's where I'm at...

John B.

Hey John, are you going to be around this afternoon/evening? Actually, I should probably call or text to ask that, but it has some bearing on this whole discussion. When mine came out, the deeper threads were untouched and I believed there were enough there and that I was grabbing them fully. That lasted for a week. At 130 lbs, there's a lot of tension going on and what I thought was enough was about 2/3rds of the threads. The bolt still worked out fast. The Time-sert is so bloody easy that all this extra work seems to be a means to a dead end. I would like to have a look and see if what you have is similar where mine was. If so, then skip the heartache I went through and do the permanent fix. I will call in a bit...

I ordered my Time Sert kit today. It is shipping from Reno, NV this afternoon. After speaking with Dylan, it's the right thing to do.

John B.

Gonna do the timing job too? The balancer wobbeling around seems to have loosened your belt, i say don't chance it. Pat said when his bolt backed out he had to re time his truck.

Yep, I'm going to order that stuff, too. Rock Auto has a kit with the water pump, tensioner, seals and the belt for a reasonable (under $175) cost. I'll probably just go ahead and order the new crank sprocket, too, since the old one has the sheared off pin in it still. That'll come from Mitsubishiparts.net.

Of course I also need a new center steering link and the three front differential mounts. So, naturally, I'll also replace the lifetime warrantied idler arm, Pitman arm and tie rod ends. Might as well.

If I'm feeling flush, I'll pick up a hydraulic press from Harbor Freight so I don't have to pay NAPA to press stuff in/out for me anymore. I've never replaced the diff bushings, but I assume they don't just pop right out...

John B.

I replaced two of the three front diff bushings in my driveway without a press or removing the diff. The third was inaccessible with the diff in the vehicle so I had it replaced when I had the 4.90 gears installed.

Good call JB, if its gonna be down mine as well make sure all the loose ends are tied up before its uprising. You need to have a wrench party at your house so we can eat chicken wings and get that thing back on the road. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

I'm glad to see this taking a turn for the better. I bet you have good luck with that timesert!