Question for those of you who have replaced the crank sprocket/Crank sensor blade/locating pins/woodruff key. when I pulled these parts off my crankthe pins where sheared but the key is in tact. when lI looked closer it appears that the keyway in the crank does not extend very far back on the shaft, it looks like the only thing that the key will hold is the timing sprocket. Is the sensor blade and spacer only help on buy the roll pins? They have a key notch in them to accept a key but I just don't see that there is enough key way. Am I missing something?

94 SR DOHC W/broken crank bolt

I haven't taken my sprocket off yet since I'm not ready to do my timing belt, so I couldn't tell you. Sounds like the damages are the same, though. I bought a new sprocket, which includes the pin, but not the Woodruff key. I figured since the truck still will run, I won't be replacing anything in back of the sprocket. The break ground that pin right down, though, and let me tell you, drilling that sucker out isn't easy.

John B.

yah the pin on my timeing spocket sheared off as well and the hole looks like it is mal-formed so I just ordered a new timing sprocket. You might want to check the locating pins on the back of the sprocket that hold the crank position blade and spacer. I'm thinking I might replace the crank position sensor too in case it was damaged by the blade or spcacer when they sheared off.

quick update,

For all those with a droken crank bolt out there, be very careful if you decide to use a thread repair kit. My thread repair did not go well and I eneded up having to pull the engine and pulling the crank. Because the snout has been drilled on (by me) crankshaft machine shops basically will not touch it. I've been advised by several places that the best thing to do is to buy a reconditioned one which runs near $400. With a core deposit of around $150 (unfortunately I probably won't get a core deposit cause I've already dilled on it). The best bet in the long run would have been just pulling the crank in the first place and have the bolt extracted. Or at the very least be able to get the core deposit for it on a re-man crank. Just food for thought if anybody else runs into this issue.

On a positive note it was my first time pulling an engine so I learned a ton, also plan on doing the VSS while the engine is out and was planning on doing the Lower plenum but discovered that it had already been done! There's a part# cast into the plenum that you can see just barely through the gaps of the plenum. So that's a nice surprise guess I'll use the money on the crank instead. Cheers.

is it possible to read the part number with the engine stil in and without removing it???

Djunk, NAPA lists a reconditioned crank with bearings for $409 and a core deposit of $69. Not sure if that could be an option for you, just throwing that out there.

John B.

Viper - I do believe you would be able to see it with the engine in but i'm not completly sure. As I already had the upper and lower plenum off and on the bench when I saw the Part Number. I won't be able to check for a few weeks as I won't be home. I''l be sure to check and get back to you.

JohnnyB - thanks for the info

JohnnyB thanks for the tip on NAPA, looks like I'm going to go with a crank from them. A little cheaper than northern auto. Doesnt look like I'll be able to return my core for deposit plus there is a NAPA in Lander.

You can always TRY to return the crank. Or make a neat table out of it.

John B.

The prevalent rednek practice down here is to use it for a mailbox post, but that's usually the longer I6 crank from a John Deere diesel tractor motor.

Bag the crank in clear plastic with the bag knotted at the nose and turn it in with a straight face. Pay in cash, not a credit card so they can't do a delayed charge later.