This last year I've been burning oil very badly. Initially hoped issue was a failed PCV valve but it was more than that -- time for a rebuild. I have done the lower plenum but it's time for the big one. So after months of reading and saving threads I'm taking the plunge. I've comprised this initial parts list currently all sourced from mitsubishiparts.net. Any assistance - especially with alternate parts or sources would be of great help. On my end I promise to update the matrix for a current parts list with source and pricing, and to document and photograph parts as well.

Here's the first tentative parts list:
Description -- Part Number -- Price -- #items -- Totals

• [color:"red"]Cylinder Head Gasket Kit----MD972340 $243.87 1 $243.87[/color] ***partial duplicate
  Engine Gasket Kit----MD972341 $281.41 1 $281.41
  Piston & Pin Assembly----MD308277 $65.47 1 $65.47
  Timing Belt----MD364114 $103.73 1 $103.73
  Timing Belt Idler----b]MD319022[/b] $31.17 1 $31.17
  Timing Belt Tensioner----b]MD140071[/b] $33.34 1 $33.34
  Timing Belt Adjuster----MD319040 $111.69 1 $111.69
  Cam Followers----MD377054 $36.91 24 $885.84
  Cylindet Head Bolts----MD065959 $4.12 16 $65.92
  Center Bolt,crank----1100A141 $6.43 1 $6.43
  Sparkplugs----MS851335 $10.56 6 $63.36
  Spark plug Wire set----MD311208 $76.29 1 $76.29
  oil filter----MD352626 $4.56 1 $4.56
  oil pump----MD302234 $215.19 1 $215.19
  PCV valve----MD183547 $16.54 1 $16.54
  PCV Valve Grommet----1057A033 $3.83 1 $3.83
  Fuel Filter----MB868452 $19.25 1 $19.25
  Water Pump----MD972440 $134.03 1 $134.03
  0ring between pump and coolant pipe----MD030763 $2.21 1 $2.21
  Injector Seals Lower----MD087060 $1.62 6 $9.72
  Fuel Inj Seal Upper----MD614805 $4.25 6 $25.50
  AC belt----MB813344 $11.64 1 $11.64
  power steering Belt----MD199224 $17.64 1 $17.64
  Alternator Belt----MD199223 $28.54 1 $28.54
  TOTALS 2,213.3 (adjusted as we go)

My first question is - Is there a difference between the Cylinder Head Gasket Kit, and the Engine Gasket kit? I need one or both of these?

As an Example -- here's a link to an ebay auction: Is this kind of thing the same? Viable - not as good?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Mitsubishi-K...3aa&vxp=mtr

Or this?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/MITSUBISHI-GALAN...a05&vxp=mtr

I bought the full engine gasket kit, which got me almost everything I needed to reseal my rebuild. I'd have to go through my old posts, but there were a few things missing from the full gasket kit. I want to say it was the front and rear cam seals, but I will verify. Head gaskets were included in the kit I bought, but the part number I have is different. MD972341 is the full upper and lower gasket kit.

Jinstv is your friend on this one. He probably still has nightmares.

John B.

Why are you rebuilding the lower end? Have you done a compression or a leak down test? Most oil problems are head related. Valve guide seals go bad and cause oil consumption.
My engine had 232,xxx mile on it and the lower end was just fine. It now uses less than a quart, like a 1/2, between oil changes (5000 miles). Most on here who have rebuilt their engines have only done the top end.

Thanks Jinstv --- I've got all your threads bookmarked in a folder (and others) and am trying to build a comprehensive document for the job. I have a great guy locally that will be doing the work but I'm trying to facilitate as much of it as I can. I work on my 89, but the 95 is beyond my skill set or shop resources.

As far as the lower end Grasscat -- I've done the lower plenum but I don't know enough about what doing the lower end as opposed to the upper end means -- I'm just trying to get my ducks in a row with parts and resources. What's the lower end comprised of that wouldn't need to be done as part of an engine rebuild and what would be the logic to do or not do it?

AFAIK, the upper end is primarily the heads and associated parts above the main block.

The lower end is the main block, crankshaft, pistons, etc.

As Mike said in most situations the upper end is what needs rebuilding unless you think your main bearings (on your crankshaft) are going south on you. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

No problem man. Any way we can help, just let us know.

Have your guy do a compression and leak down test on your engine. That may help pinpoint where your oil consumption is coming from. If the cylinders are within spec, you may not have to do anything with the short block itself. I'd suspect valve stem seals as well if it all checks out. Doing heads are a LOT cheaper than getting the short block rebuilt. My main bearings were shot, as well as number 4 piston getting ready to disintegrate. Plus I had a bad crankshaft. That stuff added up quickly.

Let us know what you find out & good luck.

i going with valve stem seals i have never seen a lower end use oil

I concur with the above posts - unless you have a specific reason to suspect that the pistons or rings have a problem, I'd bet that the bottom end of your engine is in good shape. You'll more than likely be able to fix your issues with a top-end rebuild - I did that at 130K miles on my 3.5 and with over 230K on it now the bottom end is still in good shape. You can remove the heads and everything else without having to remove the engine from the vehicle if you're just doing the top end. If you have any oil leaks from either of the oil pan gaskets, or if the leak-down test that you're going to perform indicates seriously worn rings, then it makes sense to look at doing a complete rebuild, which will necessitate pulling the engine.

Here's another parts source to consider, especially for the valve lash adjusters:

http://www.store.partsdinosaur.com/page213.html

I usually get my OEM parts from Southwest Mitsubishi in Texas:

http://www.oemmitsubishiparts.com/