Hello everyone. I am a member to a few forums. 4bdt swap, honda tech, SY/TY and now 4x4 wire.

I recently purchase a 1995 isuzu pickup 2.6l 4x4. manual locking hubs. I am working on the front end. It needs 2 front axles. I am having a hard time figure the removal process out.

I just talked to some one and they said that they need to be unloked from the t-case via c-clips.

I got a manual and its not right. Thanks

How do I get into there the pumpkin? I am lost thanks.

The CV axles are retained by two snap rings behind the axle locating bracket. In other words, if you want the entire CV axle out, you have the pleasure of dropping the entire front axle assembly.

Having said that, if you are replacing them due to a busted outer joint (the most common cause), you can just swap the outer portion by separating the inner joint at the "soup can", assuming you have the same type of axle. Most aftermarket axles will not work for this swap. There are a few that are intended for an outer swap that should work, or get a salvage factory axle. I use car-part.com to find salvage axles.

Let us know what your plan is and we can elaborate as needed.

Well I am about to head out and start working. I believe I am going to be dropping the carrier assembly and removing the part as 1. Bracket attached and apperantly yes, the clip is behind the plate?

I have a replacment set I am going to order, again Im not sure if it will even be correct. I looked some parts up on EBAY and 1 member tells me YES they are correct, for 119 a pair, shipped free. I called local parts store and they are telling me upward 150-180

My main focus is to remove the part and take it from there. I Do have a rebuild kit universal I was hoping I could use but this is on both Inner joints which look like the can.

There are two snap rings on each side behind the diff bracket/plate. There is also a snap ring on the end of the axle shaft in the hub, but that is like the first thing you remove.

An extra pair of hands is helpful once you get to the point of dropping the center axle/diff assembly.

On my 95 Trooper I have been able to do it without removing any steering components, but others go ahead and remove the steering links for better clearance. It takes a really strong puller to get the pittman arm off, which is part of the reason I don't bother.

Hi, I got the snap ring up front free. I also remove 1 snap ring behind the plate. I see a bearing and a gasket seal. The bearing has a weird clip inside it. I cant get it out and cant remove the bearing. It is still on the housing. I dont know what I am doing. I took half the suspension apart and all the links. Stuff was brand new and got torn. I am dissapointed.

Also to add I order new axles, and speak to a CV guy andhe told me I am going to just be replacing the outer assembly to the inner. Like I will cut my boot off and install a whole new shaft minus the inside. Hes telling me to leave it all alone. It only comes with a boot that adapts to the inside?

I am lost. I got involved and now im starting to loose sight of things.

I am a little confused as to what you have and have not done, and what you are actually trying to accomplish, so let me try again.

Are you intending to replace the ENTIRE CV axle on both sides (all the way to the diff)? Unless the inner joint is bad, you don't have to, you can pull the inner boot off of the can, remove a circlip from the inside lip of the can, and pull the outer part of the CV axle out of the can (along with a bunch of grease, have rags handy). They do sell replacement aftermarket axles that are made to replace just this outer part, and this job is MUCH simpler than trying to replace the entire axle all the way to the diff.

BUT, if you already have the center axle housing on the ground, meaning you removed those two large bolts holding the brackets to the frame on each side (and before that removed the knuckles etc. each side) you are halfway to replacing the entire axle anyway. Unbolt the bracket plate from the end of the housing tube on the driver side, and from the pumpkin on the pass. side.

Now there is a snap ring on the bearing as you mentioned, even with the snap ring off the bearing is on there snug but it will come off if you apply force to both sides and pry it up. Once the bearing is off there is another snap ring on the seal I think that also needs to come off to separate the CV axle from the bracket.

If you make it that far, then just reverse everything for reassembly. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />

Big swede, I have planned to do both complete axles.

Little do I know what is on offer and what is what.

This job turned into a larger project.

I am at the snap ring part with the plate and gasket trying to get that freed up. I did not have correct snap ring pliers to get off. Also the bearing is a tight one and I am trying not to damage.

I have most of the front driver side suspension down. I suppose dropping the front shock would help?? I have it connected still, and having issues get the plate and axle out and clear everything as 1.

Tomorrow morning I will attempt again

I hope everything goes back the same way.

It is indeed a big project, one that I try to avoid when possible. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/shiner.gif" alt="" />

I remove the knuckles from both sides but leave the control arms, shocks, and steering in place. Then I unbolt the brackets on both sides. It is a tight fit to jockey the assembly around enough to get the CV axles out of the housing, but with the diff pumpkin on a floor jack and a buddy helping me we manage it.

Big Swede, I got the little bugger out. I never dropped the front shock and it made things easier. Also needed a better pair of snap ring pliers, went to sears/craftsman and bought the 90* offered and it snapped the tip. Right now I am at a hold up becasue it is wet. I took the work on becasue we were having mild weathr. Now Old man winter is creeping back down. Axles wont be in untill Wensday! they are the full part. Not the outer replacment.

I am 45% done! Still have to pop the axle in on driver side and move on to a complete rebuild on passanger side. Upper/lower ball joints new axle possible new tie rod ends.

I had my dad give me a hand and he ended up tearing the tie rod boots with a dumb pickle fork. Now I am replacing that which was already brand new.

I wanted to prepare this for snow/mud terrain. I still need to figure out a exhaust system as this truck has just a CAT and nothing else. I purchased it out of state and we will all learn Legalities and Emissions are different state-to-state. The thing has a strait pipe on it and I would like to find a stock/factory replacment exhaust and tail pipe. I have tried around and no luck. Not sure what to try next besides a Muffler shop. Thing is I can weld and do it my self. I need to locate a proper can and tail pipe piece which is hard to do

Thanks for the help

So Real quick- Im lost here. I have no heat in the truck. I chased $hit everywhere. Really nothing. I put my meter on the 2 wires that WERE NOT HOOKED UP TO BLOWER MOTOR, and nothing. I touched together nothing. Replaced all fuses nothing. Swapped relays out, nothing. So I removed the blower unit and some water spilled out of the thing. I thought it was done. I bench tested the part and it works fine. It actually looks new. I looked up and it looks like some water comming in from a clip, or the cowl, I will have to figure it out. Thing is I test this and that, Not sure on how to go about the right way, I remove all fuses with ignition on and test fuse spots for power, Some had power, others did not. So I remove the fuse box and un attach the bottom portion. I notice 1 wire small black with silver dot I believe is cooked. It exits out towards the front of the fuse box and from there I have no clue where it goes. The wire is black silver dot, and It is cooked. Melted sheath. Exposed copper some parts darken and corroded with patina

My question is, How do I go about trouble shooting heat issues. I am worried about that wire I could not see what location it was on fuse box